Title says it all . No more wandering , even on the ruts , solid feel . Truck feels like new on the hwy in the wind . AND , I still need to get it aligned , that comes today .

Was it easy ? Not really . I ran into a few snags . My 96 has a 2000 front diff with double piston calipers . The cam bolts were seized as hard as I've ever seen them , meaning cutting was the only option .
On the 2000 , the axle cam bolts are bigger , the eccentric washer is bigger , and the bushing sleeve is bigger . I was lucky enough the dealer had the 96 and 2000 bolts in stock so I could choose appropriately . As a bonus , the bigger 2000 bolts were 1/2 price . The bushing sleeve I drilled as it was a very small difference . I used a 3/4 bit for a very snug fit with the anti seize . I had already removed one nut off that bolt so I didn't buy any washers or nuts , just a new set of bolts . Another mistake . One side , no problem . Other side , snapped off ! Great , I have no drill press . I fought a good fight , but , NFW that nut would come off , even after welding on a nut , the little stud left just snapped off . All this on a Sunday with nothing open , and a holiday Monday . I have 100's of jeep nuts and bolts , but none this size with a 24 mm head . I was about to give up , when I noticed some large bolts holding my engine puller together . Just because , I tried . They fit perfect , much to my surprise . Everything got put back together finally .
Time to pull it out of the garage . I start it up , hit the brake to put it in gear . Brake goes to the floor . Turned out , I nicked the damn brake line when I cut off the bolt with the grinder . It popped as soon as brake was applied . Well , that's what you get for not having enough lighting I suppose . New line now on , and I put a new line on the other side as well to match . All good now , brakes feel stronger actually .

Got it for a run and , yeah , it was worth the hassle . I can't wait to get it aligned properly . I would highly recommend doing this . I do it to my jeeps all the time . I replace all rubber components on the suspension period . Old bushings are just worn out and soft ! My story is pretty much a worst case scenario so you know what could happen , and be prepared properly .

Next : Remove the low 47K 5.2 , swap for a lower 20K 5.9 mopar crate engine with a M-1 , 52mm TB and add headers . I also know where to get a gently used low k supercharger , just not sure wifey will let me spend $3500 more on this old girl . I think she's worth it It's my new toy .

 

I replaced my upper and lower control arms with these units that use greaseable poly bushings. Makes a big difference in the truck's handling and they were easy to install.


http://www.spohn.net/shop/1994-1999-...2500-3500.html

 

I'll stick with my $120 in bushings or get new style ones from 2500/3500(cheap and easy to find take off new) . OEM style bushings are not hard to change , literally 5 minutes per arm , the bolt was the only issue . Replacement arm doesn't change that part . Also not a fan of poly control arm bushings . I figure if no manufacturer wants to use them stock , why would I ? I didn't mind the on the rear my Mustang , or in the Edlebrock arms I put on my 70 Chevelle , but on the front I just don't like the hard ride they gave on a jeep . I wouldn't want any firmer than these new bushings gave .