Hi all- this is my first post here at DF, although I've been lurking for a while.

I have come to the conclusion, after months of debate, that I am going to build my own lift, and ditch the POS 4" that came on my truck when I bought it.

The main reasons for wanting to build my own are:
Front axle needs moved forward 1-2" and needs straightened out as its sitting crooked under my truck

I am going to be building a 6" long arm kit from scratch, as well as an updated torrid setup.

I will be using 2" Dimeter .25" thick pipe for the arms and tie rods and adjustable heims on both ends of everything.

I realize this is 1000x overkill on tube size, but I have an abundance of this stuff and I'd rather use something a "bit" to strong than something to weak.

Anyways, I know how to tackle the tie rod setup,
But I'm looking for any pointers, tips and advice for the lift.
Such as:
Where would be the BEST mounting locations for the arms, and what shock/spring combo would you recommend?

I can weld and bend the tube with no problem and I am well aware I will need to weld some mounting points to the frame.
Just looking for some advice on where to put them
Or would it be better to use the factory rear location for the upper, and just add one mph t for the lower?

Thanks guys, and I'll be sure to keep this post updates with progress of the project once it is fully planned out and underway!

James

 

Why not buy complete kit, like the one Dodge Offroad sells (DOR Extreme Bent Long Arms 94-02)? It's made of same tube size as what you want to use. Why 6" of lift? If you move axle forward, it will clear big tires nicely with lower lift. Big tires and low COG is way to, IMO.

It's going to take some time to design and build front suspension compared to rear, as there are lot of stuff that needs to take account, like front tires, body mount with long arm setup etc. That DOR kit is bolt on, clears body mount and you can run 37" tires with 3" lift.

But first you need to take lot of measurements. Then you need suspension calculator, like one of these. There are lot of variables when designing good suspension. Poorly designed and built suspension makes vehicle a potential death trap, so you need to study before you cut anything.

You don't want to use stock location for the upper if you run long lower, it screw up the geometry.

Don't get me wrong, if you have skills and know-how, go for it

 

The Reason behind the 6" is that I currently have a 4" with about an inch of reverse rake. (About 5" in the rear)

I am also considering just making some new arms and toerless for my 4" to move the axle and center everything up.

I realize that mounting location is key to ensure proper movement and no binding,
Which is why I came here.

I know I can fab everything up, there is no doubt about that. I just want to make sure I get everything in good a position so it all works well.

I'll check out the link.

Thanks!

 

junk the 4 link and go with a 2 link thats what built and the ride and handling is great and no more death shake