high amp Battery Drain
Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 5,011
Likes: 6
From: Meeker, CO
Okay, we're getting coil power to the relay.
This was with a known good relay stuffed into the socket? Just to confirm: First ensure that the AC works, then swap the AC Clutch relay into the Transmission Control Relay socket, reset codes, try once more.
If that leaves you with those codes, put that relay back where it came from, and with a bright light and a magnifying glass (or a borescope, if ya got one), visually inspect the terminals inside that socket to see if any are spread, burnt, or damaged. If there's nothing unusual in there, find a male terminal of the same size as those on the bottom of the relay, and test fit it into each location in the socket. It should be good 'n' snug in all. If one is sloppy, we can shim it up with some stripped solid 22 gauge for the time being and worry about replacing it after we've concluded this troubleshooting effort.
If the terminals are all good, we're going searching. Which leads to finding, which is good, so well worth doing, but there's nothing wrong with hoping for a quick 'n' easy.
Updated to add: If you don't find a funky terminal in there, hang your multimeter (set to DCV) back in the 85 and 86 pins, start the engine, and carefully (for your own personal protection) wiggle the cabling every few inches along between the PDC and the PCM while watching the meter for voltage fluctuation that would indicate a break. The whole run of interest is accessible at the top of the cowl.
This was with a known good relay stuffed into the socket? Just to confirm: First ensure that the AC works, then swap the AC Clutch relay into the Transmission Control Relay socket, reset codes, try once more.
If that leaves you with those codes, put that relay back where it came from, and with a bright light and a magnifying glass (or a borescope, if ya got one), visually inspect the terminals inside that socket to see if any are spread, burnt, or damaged. If there's nothing unusual in there, find a male terminal of the same size as those on the bottom of the relay, and test fit it into each location in the socket. It should be good 'n' snug in all. If one is sloppy, we can shim it up with some stripped solid 22 gauge for the time being and worry about replacing it after we've concluded this troubleshooting effort.
If the terminals are all good, we're going searching. Which leads to finding, which is good, so well worth doing, but there's nothing wrong with hoping for a quick 'n' easy.
Updated to add: If you don't find a funky terminal in there, hang your multimeter (set to DCV) back in the 85 and 86 pins, start the engine, and carefully (for your own personal protection) wiggle the cabling every few inches along between the PDC and the PCM while watching the meter for voltage fluctuation that would indicate a break. The whole run of interest is accessible at the top of the cowl.
Last edited by UnregisteredUser; May 6, 2016 at 06:41 PM.
Captain
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 647
Likes: 3
From: Alabama
Relay Socket Testing
Hey guys, there's an easier way to test all around the relay. O'Reilly sells a Lisle - Test Jumper for S19.99:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0221&ppt=C0335
check it out.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0221&ppt=C0335
check it out.
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: Planet Earth
I just discovered when I have the jumper in its drives normal we all know that, but I just tried to drive it with relay in and it starting out in 3rd or 2nd gear. that normally says the 3/4 the shift solenoid I think. it being the truck shifts fine when the relay is jumped I think the solenoid is ok. its new anyway. every thing in the tranny is new. so im still thinking a short somewhere.
Thread Starter
|
Professional
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: Planet Earth
[QUOTE=Friar Tuck;3295890]Hey guys, there's an easier way to test all around the relay. O'Reilly sells a Lisle - Test Jumper for S19.99:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0221&ppt=C0335
would make testing relays better for sure I may get one. thanks
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0221&ppt=C0335
would make testing relays better for sure I may get one. thanks
Grand Champion
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 7,435
Likes: 578
What it sounds like is what UnregisteredUser mentioned, The relay sockets may be stretched out not making contact with the relay terminals. It's not a short is lack of voltage to the trans. You need to look closely at the relay sockets. Another way to get contact to the relay terminals is to bend them at an angle. This is only if the socket is spread out.
P1765 Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay Control Circuit (42RE, 46RE, 47RE)
P1765 Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay Control Circuit (42RE, 46RE, 47RE)
Thread Starter
|
Professional
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: Planet Earth
ill try
What it sounds like is what UnregisteredUser mentioned, The relay sockets may be stretched out not making contact with the relay terminals. It's not a short is lack of voltage to the trans. You need to look closely at the relay sockets. Another way to get contact to the relay terminals is to bend them at an angle. This is only if the socket is spread out.
P1765 Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay Control Circuit (42RE, 46RE, 47RE)
P1765 Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay Control Circuit (42RE, 46RE, 47RE)
Captain
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 647
Likes: 3
From: Alabama
You're gonna hate the fact that the only things downstream of that fuse are that fking relay that I've been after you about, and then beyond that the transmission solenoid assembly.
So: We want to return your rig to its as-built condition for this test, so rip out that mufkin jumper and any/all other hacks, workarounds, and/or aftermarket components that might be installed, and put everything except that transmission control relay where the factory originally put it, fuses and all. With everything except the transmission control relay right where the factory put it, and nothing in there that the factory didn't install, measure the drain. Nothing else. Just that.
Report the result. Don't analyze, don't get out in front. Just report the result. I will walk you through the troubleshooting process logically and methodically, and we will solve this problem, but ONLY if we can get a connection from my brain to your fingers and eyes that we can both rely upon. That and a known good multimeter, anyway.
So: We want to return your rig to its as-built condition for this test, so rip out that mufkin jumper and any/all other hacks, workarounds, and/or aftermarket components that might be installed, and put everything except that transmission control relay where the factory originally put it, fuses and all. With everything except the transmission control relay right where the factory put it, and nothing in there that the factory didn't install, measure the drain. Nothing else. Just that.
Report the result. Don't analyze, don't get out in front. Just report the result. I will walk you through the troubleshooting process logically and methodically, and we will solve this problem, but ONLY if we can get a connection from my brain to your fingers and eyes that we can both rely upon. That and a known good multimeter, anyway.
He's still getting the codes because you told him to not put the transmission relay in.
Captain
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 647
Likes: 3
From: Alabama
Okay, we're getting coil power to the relay.
This was with a known good relay stuffed into the socket? Just to confirm: First ensure that the AC works, then swap the AC Clutch relay into the Transmission Control Relay socket, reset codes, try once more.
If that leaves you with those codes, put that relay back where it came from, and with a bright light and a magnifying glass (or a borescope, if ya got one), visually inspect the terminals inside that socket to see if any are spread, burnt, or damaged. If there's nothing unusual in there, find a male terminal of the same size as those on the bottom of the relay, and test fit it into each location in the socket. It should be good 'n' snug in all. If one is sloppy, we can shim it up with some stripped solid 22 gauge for the time being and worry about replacing it after we've concluded this troubleshooting effort.
If the terminals are all good, we're going searching. Which leads to finding, which is good, so well worth doing, but there's nothing wrong with hoping for a quick 'n' easy.
Updated to add: If you don't find a funky terminal in there, hang your multimeter (set to DCV) back in the 85 and 86 pins, start the engine, and carefully (for your own personal protection) wiggle the cabling every few inches along between the PDC and the PCM while watching the meter for voltage fluctuation that would indicate a break. The whole run of interest is accessible at the top of the cowl.
This was with a known good relay stuffed into the socket? Just to confirm: First ensure that the AC works, then swap the AC Clutch relay into the Transmission Control Relay socket, reset codes, try once more.
If that leaves you with those codes, put that relay back where it came from, and with a bright light and a magnifying glass (or a borescope, if ya got one), visually inspect the terminals inside that socket to see if any are spread, burnt, or damaged. If there's nothing unusual in there, find a male terminal of the same size as those on the bottom of the relay, and test fit it into each location in the socket. It should be good 'n' snug in all. If one is sloppy, we can shim it up with some stripped solid 22 gauge for the time being and worry about replacing it after we've concluded this troubleshooting effort.
If the terminals are all good, we're going searching. Which leads to finding, which is good, so well worth doing, but there's nothing wrong with hoping for a quick 'n' easy.
Updated to add: If you don't find a funky terminal in there, hang your multimeter (set to DCV) back in the 85 and 86 pins, start the engine, and carefully (for your own personal protection) wiggle the cabling every few inches along between the PDC and the PCM while watching the meter for voltage fluctuation that would indicate a break. The whole run of interest is accessible at the top of the cowl.
The relay should still be out if he's following your instructions.
Captain
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 647
Likes: 3
From: Alabama
What it sounds like is what UnregisteredUser mentioned, The relay sockets may be stretched out not making contact with the relay terminals. It's not a short is lack of voltage to the trans. You need to look closely at the relay sockets. Another way to get contact to the relay terminals is to bend them at an angle. This is only if the socket is spread out.
P1765 Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay Control Circuit (42RE, 46RE, 47RE)
P1765 Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay Control Circuit (42RE, 46RE, 47RE)
No, this code is for the relay control circuit, the coil on pins 85 and 86. The PCM is trying to apply ground to the relay coil, but the PCM does not see any indication (voltage drop or current) that the relay is even there. That's because the relay ISN'T THERE. If Bunker is following instructions, at this point, he has not been told to reinstall the relay yet.
Last edited by Friar Tuck; May 7, 2016 at 01:24 AM.
Captain
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 647
Likes: 3
From: Alabama
Battery Drain
Hey Bunker, there were 2 main reasons for the drain, as I see it:
1) The hood light (1 amp) and the off-draw circuit (500mA).
2) The transmission circuitry, caused by leaving the jumper in for the Transmission Relay. This jumper was supplying 12 volts to the transmission circuitry all the time, regardless of whether the engine was running, or even if the key wasn't in the ignition switch. BAD JUMPER!!! BETTER TO SEE CEL The cel is your friend
DID WE EVER CHECK TO SEE WHY WE WERE GETTING THOSE STRANGE VOLTAGES AT THE COIL?