Want To Know When Your TCC Locks?
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Record Breaker
Joined: Sep 2015
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Want To Know When Your TCC Locks?
(Or at least if the PCM is sending the signal)
Too much time on my hands? Perhaps.
I was curious if there was a way to install an "idiot" light to let me know when my trans locks. Turns out it's very easy. A 12v LED, a 100 ohm resistor from radio shack and wire.
The PCM just provides a ground to the lock solenoid when it decides it's the right time. The other side of the solenoid has a 12v supply, once the ignition is on.
There are 3 connectors on your PCM, C1, C2 and C3. C3 is closest to the passenger side fender, C2 is in the middle and C1 is toward the driver. For the power I used C1 pin 2 (light green/black stripe). You could also use C1 pin 22 or straight from the battery but pin 2 is fused and ignition switched, so I thought that best. From there, I went to the 100ohm resistor then to the positive side of the LED. The other side of the LED goes to C2 pin 11 (red/black stripe). You do not cut these wires! I merely skinned back a small section of the insulation, wrapped my wire around, soldered it, taped it up real well. Put the LED where you like, I put mine next to my trans temp gauge.
You can watch the LED pulse/flicker (modulate) as you approach the proper lock speed. Then it goes solid on. I am not sure, but I think that it is really modulating the ground to the solenoid but so quickly that the LED looks like it is on solid. If your LED never comes on, you probably have it in the circuit backwards.
Your wiring may be different if yours is 97 or below.
Too much time on my hands? Perhaps.
I was curious if there was a way to install an "idiot" light to let me know when my trans locks. Turns out it's very easy. A 12v LED, a 100 ohm resistor from radio shack and wire.
The PCM just provides a ground to the lock solenoid when it decides it's the right time. The other side of the solenoid has a 12v supply, once the ignition is on.
There are 3 connectors on your PCM, C1, C2 and C3. C3 is closest to the passenger side fender, C2 is in the middle and C1 is toward the driver. For the power I used C1 pin 2 (light green/black stripe). You could also use C1 pin 22 or straight from the battery but pin 2 is fused and ignition switched, so I thought that best. From there, I went to the 100ohm resistor then to the positive side of the LED. The other side of the LED goes to C2 pin 11 (red/black stripe). You do not cut these wires! I merely skinned back a small section of the insulation, wrapped my wire around, soldered it, taped it up real well. Put the LED where you like, I put mine next to my trans temp gauge.
You can watch the LED pulse/flicker (modulate) as you approach the proper lock speed. Then it goes solid on. I am not sure, but I think that it is really modulating the ground to the solenoid but so quickly that the LED looks like it is on solid. If your LED never comes on, you probably have it in the circuit backwards.
Your wiring may be different if yours is 97 or below.
