He literally sprayed some lube around the seal of the input shaft while I slowly turned the wheel back and forth. It sounds like it's in the firewall but it travels up the shaft like a speaker wire to the wheel.

Here's a non-update:

So Redhead had suggested I put the caster back to +3ish because too much won't turn or return. Yesterday, I put them between what I ran for years (noon) and what LSschwab did (forward) so about 1pm on driver and 11 on passenger if you're laying between the tires. No real change at all.

The box is very dull. After Redhead adjusted it, it turns better, but has terrible play with no road feel. This is not at all what the original Dodge box felt like. I guess there's no way to get good steering feel? Would you guys show me where you're cam bolts are? Anybody have alignment specs that I can take to a shop? I can't keep trying new shops and paying out the nose.

And the moogs are still clunking . . . . I adjusted them a tad to line up the ball joints like you're supposed to on T steering components. It still drives like a drunk sailor in a storm.

 

Bad setup can cause premature failure of other components. You say the trackbar install started it. I suspect that someone mis-aligned after install.

I would find the very best alignment guy in your area. Try asking the small tire shops that outsource alignments. I had 95 Chevy 2wd short bed regular cab that I bought new. I couldn't get my tires to wear flat, dealers told me I was in alignment, and other shops did too. When it came time for tires, my local tire shop suggested a mom-n-pop place for alignment. He put it on the machine and told me I was in spec, and he was at the edge of the adjustment and wouldn't be able to adjust it more w/o some work. I said, if you were to take it to exact middle of specs what would it take? He said the upper control arms had to come off so he could remove the factory stops, then he'd have full adjustment. I paid about double to have him do that, watched him do it... and that thing was perfect for the rest of the 8 years I owned it.

I suspect that you need a few components replaced, since its pretty old. I'd look at replacing the bushings in the arms as well as the ball joints.

Here is a link to some steering specs I picked up along the way...

http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/00_steer_specs.html

 

Thanks - I'll do that and see if the sound disappears.

Jon

 

You should check out the Rock Solid Ram Steering Fix like Hey You suggested. Seems like everyone that used it liked it. $60 and some time to install it.

 

Research update:

It finally wasn't raining for a half hour so I trudged out in the puddles and did some tweaking.

First, removed the spohn steering box stabilizer and it immediately feels a bit lighter to turn. My theory is that those things do nothing except pad someone's pocket. It never improve anything when I put it on 5 years ago.

Second, I checked the tie rods. They seem tight and I made sure the ball joints aligned horizontally. PROBLEM? When I rotate them up and down, they move the pitman arm right or left. This is actually steering the truck as they cycle. How can that be? How can they lengthen and shorten as they cycle? My theory is that the T steering is not an upgrade after all or isn't good for these trucks (non-HD). More research to come.

Third, finally got the steering wheel straight. I believe that the rotating tie rods were giving me hell trying to find center.

Fourth, put my pipe wrench on the pitman arm nut and pulled for all my nuts. Got maybe a 1/16" turn. I don't care if Redhead says it isn't on all the way. It sure isn't coming off. Turns out nobody sells a 33mm socket. Sure was fun driving all around looking for it though.

Fifth, checked the toe in with help of a neighbor holding a tape measure. Seems to be about a 1/32 or 1/16" toe IN. I'll leave it for now.

Sixth, put an extra O ring on the pressure line to the pump as it's been leaking since I installed it. The original didn't have it but since it came with it, why not try. I still have the OEM pump which was fine so it may go back on if it keeps leaking.

I hope to get some hwy miles today or tomorrow to see how it does without the DSS and check the response. Still can't believe the T setup is so bad with movement. More to come. . . .

 

Usually, 1/4" toe would be a good place to start.


and...
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...d=ONYR0B7VT9PP

 

Oh, I'm sure I could order it all over the place. But I needed it right away and all the stores either stop at 29mm or go from 32 to 34mm. Big help.

Forgot: I also adjusted the cam bolts back to noon. This is where they were when I put on the new tie rods. Seems to help with the popping in them when I turn. We'll see. . .

 

It worked like a charm. All nice and quiet - and tight and responsive.

 

Think the problem has been diagnosed on another forum. I'm going to say this slow so people will get it.

The.... T .....steering ..... is ..... NOT ...... an ..... upgrade.

It's actually worse than the Y setup. The T uses ball joints on the ends between the tires which allow rotation up and down which then moves the distance of the drag link to the pitman arm. This causes the length to change depending on the position of the main tie rods. The original T steering did not do this. It had puck style bushings that prevented the rotation. The stupid MOOG style with ball joints is wrong.

So that's why this is being made and sold:
http://www.synergymfg.com/Synergy-94...t-p-30964.html

Click this link and read the description. Here is the key phrase:

"The Tie Rod also uses low misalignment "wobble stopper" Tie Rod End Boots to prevent unwanted Tie Rod "flop" which results in a dead spot in the steering when changing direction."

So now I'm stuck with brand new Moog T steering that is worthless. I get the dreaded dead spot after making a corner either direction. This was also causing the clunking that I hope is fixed now that I put the castor back to normal. Ugh.

So DO NOT buy into this "down grade" for your truck. I stand by this because my original steering both the box and tie rods were perfect for many years and some 80k miles. To be an upgrade, the parts should have eliminated a problem, not caused one. I may have to just put on my old Y steering which I kept.

 

About the steering not returning to center. Check your torque settings with a torque wrench on all components. Too tight and it won't return to center.