Heavy duty inverted T steering on 1500
 

All my steering components are shot, so I'm going to replace everything. I figured I might as well switch to the inverted T setup if I can do it cheaply -getting a custom linkage from Thuren, Synergy, or DOR is just too much money for me right now. Can I just buy the steering linkage components for the 2500/3500 series and bolt it up? If so what year model HD parts will work? If not, what kind of customization is required?

I already searched the archives and it seems there are so many answers depending on what model year you've got, and what year it was when they were doing the conversion that it's hard to make heads or tails of what my options are.

From what I understand 96 and 97 it will bolt right up. 98 and above you have to drill out your knife knuckles to fit the bigger tie rod ends. I can tell you I don't really feel a difference between the inverted Y and T steering.

The T steering has the issue of tie-rod-roll. The bar that goes between the knuckles will roll a bit, when you turn the wheels, giving you a 'dead spot' in your steering. There are various fixes for that......

like mentioned, T steering has tie rod roll. This will give you a dead spot (or play) in the steering wheel. When new it wont be very noticeable but as the steering wears it will get bad.
Y steering - harder on tires as the "Toe" changes throughout suspension movement and steering/turning.
Each as their downsides. If you want a quick replacement just stick with what you have already and just replace with new parts.

The answers are out there if you research carefully. Diesel forums have the best answers.

The Dodge T steering was made during 98-99 and will bolt up to anything 95-00. Knuckles were different in 94 and 01-2.

The Dodge/Ram 08 HD steering was designed to replace Y steering in 3rd gen tires and will bolt up to the AAM axles or 01-2 Danas with slight modification of the tapers. All Ram 2500 and 3500 pickups have had T steering since 2008.

Since you have a 98, the 98-99 parts will bolt right up perfectly, as they did on mine. However. . .

The aforementioned roll-over is an issue on cheap parts and even Moog now. As the wheels turn, the tie rods move in their joint first before turning horizontally allowing for a dead spot in the movement. Original Spicer and Moog parts were made with a puck style boot on the passenger joint to avoid this. Moog no longer makes them like this. The AC Delco parts last I checked still had the original puck design to keep from rolling. What I did to eliminate it was simply cut out the boot and install washers above the ball joint socket so that it sits snugly against the knuckle thus keeping roll-over from occurring.

The T steering is a big improvement over road joints and bridge seams and really solidifies the front end. Also makes alignment a breeze!

Some company or other also makes "the cure"..... Basically, its a delrin washer that goes on the joint where the drag link hits the tie bar. Supposed to prevent roll. Originally developed for GM trucks with the same issue..... I have one, just haven't installed it yet.

GM trucks? You mean old square bodies before 88? All I've ever seen is a straight tie rod from one wheel to the other on GM's never a T or Y setup.

Yeah, back when they were still solid axle front ends. Just passing on what they told me. :) No clue how accurate it is. I just hope the little feller works. :)

I would like to upgrade my steering. What is the best path to take? I have a 1999 so it sounds like I have the "T" setup with the roll issue. There is a bit of play. Which parts are the best? Do you by chance have part numbers?

There are a couple older threads about just this topic, complete with part numbers. Try a search, they should turn up.

Raman - be care with stacking the washers under the tie-rod end to prevent flop. When steering left to right the tierod need to roll slightly (due to built in ackerman of the knuckles). not letting the tierod roll will cause binding and in my experience causes the tierod stud to physically pull right off the nut holding it to the knuckle, sheering the threads. Just keep an eye on the nuts on the tie rod ends. Instead of washers, cut an old (or new) poly bushing to fit between the tie rod and knuckle. Be sure to do both knuckles as it will keep the poly from breaking down to fast.

The "cure" that was mentioned is sold by Ruffstuff Specialties. While not made for ram steering i had good luck buying the white one and reaming the inner hole slightly to fit.
This is even a better option - https://www.polyperformance.com/syne...t-boot-4134-02

All I used are two rubber discs and one metal washer stacked on top of the remaining rubber boot. It's actually quite flexible and been working fine since last year for 20k. Just took a road trip (4k) and been four-wheeling since then. I think I'm good. I'm not totally pleased with it as it would be nice to not hack up new parts but I don't have the patience right now as the steering is really good.

Ooo, I like that link and twelve bucks ain't bad. Essentially what I did with Home Depot washers ($2). Looks like Synergy puts them on the driver's side? I've got them on both. The old Moog and AC Delco has them on the passenger rod I think.

Just do I understand correctly this go on the knuckles between the tie rod ends

yes, between the knuckle and tierod end.
Synergy does just put them on one side. But over time the poly gets worn and the tie rod will start to roll. Putting them on both sides will make it last longer.
The synergy one needs cut down to about 1/2 its height to work on factory T steering as it is too tall the way it comes.
For those that are considering the synergy part;
install the tie rod end without the stock dust boot. Tighten the bolt to spec(to make sure the tie rod end is pulled tight into the knuckle), then measure the gap between the bottom edge of the tie rod end and the top of the knuckle.
This will give you the height to cut the synergy spacer down to.
Then cut the synergy "low misalignment spacer" just slightly taller than the space measured, about 3/32".

So don't use the dust boot? What would stop the water and mud from getting into the joint?

Grease.

I get that lol but without the dust boot it seems pointless to me but I will check this thread ito if my T steering ever gets lose

Moparfanatic - i meant to remove the stock dust boot just for taking a measurement for cutting the synergy part down. You wont use the stock dust boot with the synergy part anyway. The metal sleeve it comes with acts as the dust boot.

That's what I was wondering! I figured you wouldn't leave it bare in the knuckle