Brake Rotors need help
Hi, I have a Dodge Ram 96 2wd pickup. I need to get new rotors for my pickup but trying to find out which would be better for just normal driving from point A to point B. I read about the slotted, drill, cross slotted, etc.... What is the difference? What would be better for me, no racing or anything, but offers a good stopping power, non or low noise, all the good stuff.
Best Brand?? heard Brembo is good
Also brake pads?? which is good, stuff like that.
My truck has 148k miles on it and the rotors never been changed.
thank you for your time...
Best Brand?? heard Brembo is good
Also brake pads?? which is good, stuff like that.
My truck has 148k miles on it and the rotors never been changed.
thank you for your time...
Slotted rotors are more of a race rotor. Most are designed to slice a thin layer off the pad every time the brakes are applied. Shaving the pads elimnates the pads getting glazed and fading under extreme braking. It also decreases pad lifespan.
Crossdrilled rotors had a bad rep 30yrs ago and some still associate them with that. Crossdrilled rotors had a tendancy to get stress cracks around the holes till they started to camfere the holes. Pad lifespan is excellant with crossdrilled.
Slotted/crossdrilled could be the best of both worlds. Longer lifespan than slotted with less fade than a crossdrilled. PS. fade on the crossdrilled is still very good and much better than a stock rotor.
I have KVR crossdrilled rotors and carbon metalic pads upfront and their metalic pads out back. They have been on for 7yrs now and show minimal wear at best. The rotors look fine with none of the grooves the stock ones started showing after less than a year. My 96 spit out the first 2 sets of pads and stock rotors in the first 2 yrs. Havent changed them since. I inspect the rotors for any cracking on a regular basis just incase. I would suspect few drive their trucks as hard as I do (1100 1/4mile passes)
If I were to replace my rotors and pads I would probably go with the EBC drilled/slotted rotors and again use carbon metalic pads.
I like the EBC design better than the cheaper Toucans listed at the links below. If you look closely at the slots on the Toucans they end before the edge of the rotor and wont release dust/gas as well IMHO.
Brembo
EBC
Powerslots
Powerstops
Crossdrilled rotors had a bad rep 30yrs ago and some still associate them with that. Crossdrilled rotors had a tendancy to get stress cracks around the holes till they started to camfere the holes. Pad lifespan is excellant with crossdrilled.
Slotted/crossdrilled could be the best of both worlds. Longer lifespan than slotted with less fade than a crossdrilled. PS. fade on the crossdrilled is still very good and much better than a stock rotor.
I have KVR crossdrilled rotors and carbon metalic pads upfront and their metalic pads out back. They have been on for 7yrs now and show minimal wear at best. The rotors look fine with none of the grooves the stock ones started showing after less than a year. My 96 spit out the first 2 sets of pads and stock rotors in the first 2 yrs. Havent changed them since. I inspect the rotors for any cracking on a regular basis just incase. I would suspect few drive their trucks as hard as I do (1100 1/4mile passes)
If I were to replace my rotors and pads I would probably go with the EBC drilled/slotted rotors and again use carbon metalic pads.
I like the EBC design better than the cheaper Toucans listed at the links below. If you look closely at the slots on the Toucans they end before the edge of the rotor and wont release dust/gas as well IMHO.
Brembo
EBC
Powerslots
Powerstops
I put on the power stop cross drilled rotors and power stop pads earlier this year and they work really well. they stop my tank way better than the stock setup ever did.
RM... sweet truck! is that a 360 or did you bump it to a 408?
RM... sweet truck! is that a 360 or did you bump it to a 408?
Killer]X[
Yes I would go carbon metalics upfront and metalics on the rear. If you tow or drive aggressively the crossdrilled/slotted is probably the best choice.
Thanks steve00ram360
At present my motor is a mild 360 but thats all changing shortly. I have a set of Edelbrock alum 2.02 heads in the machine shop getting ported and gasket matched. On the bench, Hughes 1828 blower cam, MSD BTM, PCM with B&G 408 flash, also trading my ss 1.7rr with a buddy for his alum 1.6rr (cam lift is .544 so need 1.6s). Im about to order, forged 4" crank, rods, custom blower pistons (8.5cr) cometic headgaskets and ARP studs & 4bolt main with a girdle and deep pan so she will be bullit proof. Looking for 340-350rwhp na on the motor then 500rwhp to start with the Procharger back on. Once tuned should see mid/hi 11s on the 1/4 mile. Looking to kick some Viper, Z06 butt next season!
Yes I would go carbon metalics upfront and metalics on the rear. If you tow or drive aggressively the crossdrilled/slotted is probably the best choice.
Thanks steve00ram360
At present my motor is a mild 360 but thats all changing shortly. I have a set of Edelbrock alum 2.02 heads in the machine shop getting ported and gasket matched. On the bench, Hughes 1828 blower cam, MSD BTM, PCM with B&G 408 flash, also trading my ss 1.7rr with a buddy for his alum 1.6rr (cam lift is .544 so need 1.6s). Im about to order, forged 4" crank, rods, custom blower pistons (8.5cr) cometic headgaskets and ARP studs & 4bolt main with a girdle and deep pan so she will be bullit proof. Looking for 340-350rwhp na on the motor then 500rwhp to start with the Procharger back on. Once tuned should see mid/hi 11s on the 1/4 mile. Looking to kick some Viper, Z06 butt next season!
I was checking out your website and noticed you still have the stock exhaust on there... any perticular reason?
also I think i've seen your truck over on DTO...? anyway, good luck with the 11's and when you kick some Z06 butt let us know...
also I think i've seen your truck over on DTO...? anyway, good luck with the 11's and when you kick some Z06 butt let us know...
Killer]X[
The power stops seem like a good choice for average use if you seldom tow or haul cargo in the bed. Either way get carbon metalic pad with your new rotors and you wont be disappointed.
LOL Steve, you missed a bit at my site if you think I have a stock exhaust. My "XX Pics n Slips" pages only list modifications I made in the year listed. Scroll down my main page and find "Mods n Customizing" to see all my mods. There are links on the main page to 75 other pages you missed
If you see an RM Indy on an automotive site chances are its me. Im a member and moderator at dto.
The power stops seem like a good choice for average use if you seldom tow or haul cargo in the bed. Either way get carbon metalic pad with your new rotors and you wont be disappointed.
LOL Steve, you missed a bit at my site if you think I have a stock exhaust. My "XX Pics n Slips" pages only list modifications I made in the year listed. Scroll down my main page and find "Mods n Customizing" to see all my mods. There are links on the main page to 75 other pages you missed

If you see an RM Indy on an automotive site chances are its me. Im a member and moderator at dto.
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id take head of what indy and steve suggest... after my entire brake job .. with the duralast crap from autozone... i get more brake dust then before... and after a bunch of stop and go traffic... my brakes turn into spong...and if i have a load in the bed. like i do now with winter wieght (420lbs) my rear drums will lock up for a few miles untill they have been used a few times and the rust is grounded off the inner part of the drum...same thing is if you dont drive your truck for a bit and the rotors build rust on the faces... till feel like your truck stops like an indy car right off the bat b/c of the rust build up is slowley coming off... when these brakes i have now go to complete failure...ill be going with what was mentioned above...and maybe even a rear conversion kit to disk brakes! who knows...







