Stock track bar replacement
I didn't realize there were knockoffs. Me being me, I just wanna build the bracket for a stock 3rd Gen to bolt up, and the only thing that concerns me is getting the eye positioned exactly right so it doesn't shift the axle L or R. If I could even copy or improve upon a knockoff that's tempting
Basically what you're paying for with aftermarket products like Solid Steel is all the engineering and troubleshooting has been done for you, and indeed they deserve to get paid if you want their product. I just like building stuff....even if it's copying existing ideas
Basically what you're paying for with aftermarket products like Solid Steel is all the engineering and troubleshooting has been done for you, and indeed they deserve to get paid if you want their product. I just like building stuff....even if it's copying existing ideas
These CV's do if you don't maintain them. Even if a u-joint doesn't break and frag the ears of a yoke the centering ball eventually goes dry....then needles vanish....then the ball becomes very unhappy....then the centering post is trashed. The post is integral to the d/s so at that point it's nearly even $ to cut off the end and weld on a new end with post vs just getting an entirely new d/s
While it was not the failure we most recently experienced, the moral is lube that centering ball! It's basically impossible (or at least impractical) to do on the truck so really once every year (or even 2 years) we should all remove our front driveshafts and use the special little grease gun attachment to service the CV.
Do NOT bother with knockoffs, the tip angle and design is critical here:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SR6XE/
While it was not the failure we most recently experienced, the moral is lube that centering ball! It's basically impossible (or at least impractical) to do on the truck so really once every year (or even 2 years) we should all remove our front driveshafts and use the special little grease gun attachment to service the CV.
Do NOT bother with knockoffs, the tip angle and design is critical here:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SR6XE/
Unfortunately there's no difference in the seals from greaseable to non-greaseable, so it's always better to at least have the option to lube it.
Well, you are too. I looked up double cardan joints and learned quite a bit. Most require lubing like newer Rams and Jeeps. Lots of cool engineering there!
Some ujoints are better sealed when non-greaseable like Spicers. I've compared napa "precision" greaseables to Spicer triple seals and there's a difference in "lips" or layers. I had one set of greasable joints early on and went right back to stock Spicers. Over the 21 years driving this truck, she's taught me what she likes and what lasts.
Some ujoints are better sealed when non-greaseable like Spicers. I've compared napa "precision" greaseables to Spicer triple seals and there's a difference in "lips" or layers. I had one set of greasable joints early on and went right back to stock Spicers. Over the 21 years driving this truck, she's taught me what she likes and what lasts.








