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Stock track bar replacement

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Old Feb 27, 2022 | 10:33 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Keith_L
I didn't realize there were knockoffs. Me being me, I just wanna build the bracket for a stock 3rd Gen to bolt up, and the only thing that concerns me is getting the eye positioned exactly right so it doesn't shift the axle L or R. If I could even copy or improve upon a knockoff that's tempting

Basically what you're paying for with aftermarket products like Solid Steel is all the engineering and troubleshooting has been done for you, and indeed they deserve to get paid if you want their product. I just like building stuff....even if it's copying existing ideas
When I installed the Solid Steel conversion bracket several years ago, I was impressed with the metal wedge that fit over the bolt that installs in the hole where the old 2nd gen track bar ball joint bolt fit into the wedged hole the truck's frame. That wedge made for an exact fit, along with the rest of the bolts that connected the bracket to the truck. You can see the wedge in the photo on their web site, in the second column from the left - http://www.solidsteel.biz/trackbars.htm
 
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Old Feb 27, 2022 | 11:53 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Keith_L
These CV's do if you don't maintain them. Even if a u-joint doesn't break and frag the ears of a yoke the centering ball eventually goes dry....then needles vanish....then the ball becomes very unhappy....then the centering post is trashed. The post is integral to the d/s so at that point it's nearly even $ to cut off the end and weld on a new end with post vs just getting an entirely new d/s

While it was not the failure we most recently experienced, the moral is lube that centering ball! It's basically impossible (or at least impractical) to do on the truck so really once every year (or even 2 years) we should all remove our front driveshafts and use the special little grease gun attachment to service the CV.

Do NOT bother with knockoffs, the tip angle and design is critical here:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SR6XE/
News to me. My driveshaft is sealed. Still works great after 23 years and 281k miles. Maybe I'll check it next year . . . .
 
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Old Mar 1, 2022 | 09:22 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Ramman18
News to me. My driveshaft is sealed. Still works great after 23 years and 281k miles. Maybe I'll check it next year . . . .
I believe you are correct! I checked the stock CV from our '02 and there's no fitting to lube. I service an '03 TJ that has it, and many of the reviews on AMZ for the Lincoln tool I linked are for Rams, but later years. So at some point Chrysler wised up.

Unfortunately there's no difference in the seals from greaseable to non-greaseable, so it's always better to at least have the option to lube it.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2022 | 09:55 AM
  #14  
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Well, you are too. I looked up double cardan joints and learned quite a bit. Most require lubing like newer Rams and Jeeps. Lots of cool engineering there!

Some ujoints are better sealed when non-greaseable like Spicers. I've compared napa "precision" greaseables to Spicer triple seals and there's a difference in "lips" or layers. I had one set of greasable joints early on and went right back to stock Spicers. Over the 21 years driving this truck, she's taught me what she likes and what lasts.
 
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