Recently rebuilt the transmission and transfer case in my V-10. This is all well covered in the FSM or on EweTube, so don't have much to add. I had an older Sonnax SureCure kit. There are two available now, the ZipKit with standard bore valves for the valve body, and the SureCure which requires some really expensive reamers to fit the oversize replacement valves. I called them twice to check my parts and both reps told me wrong. My old SureCure kit did in fact have standard bore valves, measured them before I got too far along. One nice thing about the Sonnax conversion is the valve body now charges the fluid circuit in Park.
I needed a way to get the OD clutch pack apart, as you know there is a beast of a spring inside. There are a few ways to go about this, I'm sure, some of which may be a bit sketchy. I took my shop press to Canada, because that is where my heavy equipment is at. So, came up with this and built it from stuff I had laying around for the most part.

Top of my table is 3/16 plate, so I cut a notch in the edge. Drilled it for some 3/4 bolt stock. Reinforced it with some 1/8 angle and a couple of beam clamps.


Short length of 1/4 plate seemed strong enough for the head plate. Even so it bowed a bit, spring is like 7-800lbs of tension. Used a 3in Sched 40 PVC coupler, slotted to allow for access to the snap ring that holds it all together. This is the clutch pack going back in.


Splines of planetary gear need to be and stay aligned with the clutch shell or you will never get the OD to sit back down on the trans output shaft.

Dropped it back down on the output shaft to check it before reassembling the OD unit. OD clutch apply piston is missing here. Those two holes provide fluid pressure to the governor weights. If you have an RE these will be plugged from inside.

Modified the coupling in order to use it to press the rear clutch pack of the transmission apart.

Tight fit, but it works.

Sonnax makes some pretty parts. Front piston on the left is completely re-engineered. All these parts come with improved seals.Accumulator piston on right was plastic from the factory. Wears out, leaks, causing line pressure leakage/problems. Supposedly can even stick or **** in the bore. Rear piston is hard to see, so no pretty red anodizing.

The early 47RH had a push together front fluid fitting which was known to fail in the field. The recall replacements leaked, I had to change it once. There is just enough pipe to cut and re-assemble with a compression type fitting. I drilled it out a bit for flow. Also drilled the check valve out.

As HeyYou so correctly pointed out, everything runs better with a coat of paint.