I've got a 97 dodge ram 1500 4wd I've had for a couple years and it drives very rough. I know I need new shocks for sure, I have to slow down to a creep going over bumps because it'll shake me to death. I'm wondering how hard those are to replace front and back? And how hard is it to rebuild a front end or should I just focus on certain parts of it? The truck pulls hard to the left and right just depending on the road I guess. I plan on making it look nice but I just wanna make sure I can get it driving good. If I can get the shocks and front end good, then the trans is next.

 

If you have access to the necessary tools, a mechanical aptitude (or can learn while watching YouTube videos) and time + place to perform the work, as long as you're not in a high rust area, rebuilding your entire front end is a job that's well worth it if you plan to keep your truck. For the front end, you should consider replacing the following parts:

Track bar, drag link, tie rod ends, upper + lower ball joints, wheel/hub bearings, U-joints on each side of the front axle, front + rear HD shock absorbers and HD steering stabilizer - Lastly, check the bushings in the front control arms, too.

Once a complete front end job is done, the truck will ride much better and eliminate any death wobble that may have existed. The only other item to be aware of is the steering gearbox, as they tend to be sloppy and likely need replacement, too.

 

What special tools would I need to replace all of that? I just don't wanna get into something and realize I can't do it.

 

Specialty tools.....mostly a BJ (ball joint) press.

You may need various sizes of BFHs and an air hammer is ideal but optional (er, most of the time). Rust penetrant even if not in a rusty area.

Don't be fooled by pickle forks, they just trash your boots. Use a BFH to vibrate the taper apart or a proper tie rod puller like an OTC 7503 to preload the tapered stud.

But seriously, first do an inspection of the front end. I wouldn't replace what's not broke, especially since you have to ask how to do it. I do NOT mean for that to be offensive -- just saying if you don't already have the space and tools, minimize your effort and financial expenditure by only fixing what's broken.

Have a friend slowly turn the steering wheel left/right while watching your drag link and tie rods. You're looking for any dead space or play IN THE TRANSITION from one direction to another. Ditto for track bar at both ends.

Safely elevate the wheels and grab at 12 and 6 and push/pull to find BJ or wheel bearing failure. Use a pry bar to check control arm bushings

 

I'd suggest watching some YouTube videos on rebuilding the front end of a 2nd gen Dodge Ram 4x4 truck. After watching the videos and taking note of the special tools used (many of which can be loaned/rented to you by local auto parts stores), determine if it's something that you want to tackle or not... The special tools required are a ball joint press with adapters, 1/2" drive (or larger - 3/4" drive or 1" drive) ratchet and breaker bar, appropriate sized sockets to remove necessary bolts & nuts, a long section of pipe for added leverage when removing the center hub bolt, pickle fork. a large heavy hammer. If you don't have a decent set of tools readily available to you along with a good mechanical aptitude, this may be a job you want to farm out to someone else.

 

Depending on where you live makes a difference, If you live in the rust belt expect it to be harder to get things loose. I bought my truck a 60K and the axle u joints where bad along with the ball joints. I replaced the outer tie rods also when i had it apart. Next to go was the drag link then the inner tie rod. If you replace the axle u joint make sure you use dana/spicer u joints (unless you like doing the job again in the near future). A big vice is helpful doing u joints.

 

New anti sway bar bushings. I use polyurethane bushings when I can use them.