Flooding it out 98 5.9 tried most everything any ideas

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Yesterday | 10:50 AM

98ramitiner

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Flooding it out 98 5.9 tried most everything any ideas

Okay so here's the story of what happened I got the truck running after you've been sitting for about 2 years ran good when I parked it so got it running is running good exactly perfect but I was on my way to it I've started out with a no spark condition figured that one out turned out I needed to ground the PCM better to care that so now after driving it down the road and having it stalled out on me I wasn't able to start it again it started fouling plugs moderately and would start stumble cough and not ever get to the point where it was completely running it's just kind of hiccup trying to start so I started looking into it the engine coolant temperature sensor replaced every sensor on the throttle body throttle position sensor idle air control etc even the MAF or map or whatever it is sensor in the front of the throttle body checked my pressure on my fuel rail believe it's 45 while cranking 39 to 40 when sitting haven't noticed any loss of pressure so can't figure out exactly what is going on but I'm about it with him with this damn thing is there anything else any ideas anybody has anybody else had this problem I'm hoping somebody is just going to pop up with the solution so I can get this thing back on the road did scan on it OBD2 ended up having two codes being the coolant temperature sensor which I replaced already so I assumed it was a short I went about jumping it across with a resistor of the correct size and the other code was idle air control or air control system or something like that I checked the scan again after I put the resistor in the coolant temperature sensor and still flooding I cleared codes tried starting it some more still getting just a bunch of choking and almost starting a lot of times won't start unless I have my pedal to the floor after it's been sitting for a while I can go and try to start it and it'll try a little more to start a couple more times a little easier but shortly after end up with the same result as it will not even try to start up without that pedal to the floor like I said I cleared the codes with the resistor in the cold temperature sensor plug in and got it so it would clear codes and they stayed clear when I turn the ignition back on but then after trying to start it for a few minutes several different attempts it goes right back to you having the air control system code come up I also learned that you can check codes on your digital mileage rate out on the odometer by pushing the button in holding it down when you first turn the ignition on I did that it said check in the digital readout and then when you hit check quit pushing the button it gives the reading of 950 and 900 I'm about it with him though hopefully so we can toss me an idea that'll give me some results then arguing with this thing for way too long now

Yesterday | 11:33 AM

HeyYou

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From: Clayton MI

What temp does the PCM think the engine is?

Today | 04:05 PM

98ramitiner

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Well I checked it it was a scanner a while back and I think it was something like 300° f which is I know totally off but right after that I replaced the plug-in on it by taking the wires twisting them together soldering them and then running shrink tubing over the top of them and so the plugin is tight fitting on the coolant temp sensor I spent all day yesterday trying all kinda things at it grounded it. With lots of additional ground straps put yet another idle air control in it I got more effort out of it as far as trying to start now it trys to start \ithout having to floor it but still just kinda shudders and tries to start but never actually gets there don't say that gas or something but it's not because you can smell the gas flooding coming from the engine area I also had another idea and thought I wanted to run everybody see if there's anybody input so when you're doing the plug firing order on your distributor that the number one plug is supposed to be on the left side facing the very back of the engine right not like one over so what I'm saying is is like it seems to me like it is one further over than it supposed to be like one tooth over and so I'm kind of curious as to if that is normal or if it's supposed to be two of them facing directly squared up at the back of the intake manifold if you know what I'm saying mine are not like that and so maybe I was thinking that I'm having a problem there because it's always ran like that almost like his like one tooth off you know like you can put the old Chevys instead of one tooth off it's always ran like that before even when it ran before I always had to set it like a head one you know like rotate one so I'm kind of curious is there any way that can you take that distributor out of there and then turn your oil pump and then plant it back down in like you could deal with Chevys or is it possible with the the Dodge distributor of the magnums so I'm thinking maybe that has something to do with this but I don't know why it would be all the sudden now it's causing a problem where before I was able to drive it like that and it drove quite well I don't know I'm just shooting in the dark at this point so if you guys have any ideas or inside on that we'll distribute thing that could maybe help me a little bit too I'm not sure if that's a problem or not but the last time I looked at the diagram of the way the plugs wires sit in there the two was one and the last was the last one was two isn't it yeah I got two so one and two are the ones instead of sitting there supposed to be there sitting in the back of the engine Apple but instead mine's got one one over going clockwise and then to and the last one would be 7 or whatever it is the those two are the ones that are sitting against the back of the manifold squared off on the distributor and that's the only way it would run for me and has been ever since I've had the truck

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