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tow hucks

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  #11  
Old 03-28-2006, 05:40 PM
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Default RE: tow hucks

ORIGINAL: jnellydodge

Save yourself the time of trying to make them yourself and the money of buying the entire mopar kit (its usually like $150-$200), and just get the brackets thru GODRAMIT....then get the chevy tow hooks and you are ready to rock....u can do the entire thing for under $80 easily, hardware, hooks and all....that's what im doing at least. you save yourself like $100 and alot of headaches.

-note: you cannot get JUST the brackets thru mopar, i checked you must purchase the whole damn kit.
I agree. I bought the Mopar kit and like it, but wish I had known about GODRAMIT's brackets when I did mine.

GODRAMIT, what else do you fab up? I'm looking for some cool diff guards. You make anything like that?
 
  #12  
Old 03-28-2006, 06:27 PM
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Default RE: tow hucks

I made one for the front D44 in about an hour. It isnt the best but it works really well. I was going down to Paragon ORV and wanted some protection so I rushed it a little. I have pictures somewhere. hold on
 
  #13  
Old 03-28-2006, 06:27 PM
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Default RE: tow hucks

What's a HUCK?


 
  #14  
Old 03-28-2006, 06:31 PM
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Default RE: tow hucks



Like I said it isnt the prettiest but its done its job and it was cut welded and painted in less than an hour

I also fab control arm skid plates and shock tower lowering discs (basically it allows you to use a stock shock for 5" of lift or a 3" shock for 7" of lift.
 
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Old 03-28-2006, 06:35 PM
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Default RE: tow hucks

That will do the job.... good idea mang!
[sm=interesting.gif]
 
  #16  
Old 03-28-2006, 06:36 PM
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Default RE: tow hucks

It wasnt easy, I did it with the diff cover still attached to the axle. HA HA
 
  #17  
Old 03-29-2006, 12:22 AM
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Default RE: tow hucks

ORIGINAL: GOD RAM IT

A Grade 8 bolt is the minum.
ORIGINAL: moranda02

So a grade 5 bolt is what I should use? Lol and I can agree with you welding to your frame is a bad idea for these

Actually its commonly mistaken that people should use grade 8 bolts, however this is not correct I have studied metallurgy (the study of metal and its properties) among other things, and though technically true that a grade 8 bolt is stronger, because it is much harder, it all depends on what it is going to be used for.

First of let me start this info post by defining a couple things:
Ductility - the ability of a material to stretch or deform under load without breaking
Tensile Strength - the ultimate pull that a material will stand
Brittleness - the tendency of a material to fail suddenly by breaking, without any permanent deformation before failure
Hardness - a materials ability to resist penetration or indentation
Toughness - the ability of a metal to withstand rapidly applied load without breaking
Elasticity - the ability of a metal to return to its original shape and dimensions once the load has been removed
Impact Strength (aka Fracture Toughness) - the ability of a metal to withstand a sharp, high-velocity blow
Dynamic Loading - something that will be subjected to radially changing loads, reversals of stress, and quite often, sudden shock and vibration
Static Loading - something witch is stationary or relatively unchanging

Now with that sed a grade 5 bolt properties are, high Ductility, mid Tensile Strength, low Brittleness, low Hardness, high Toughness, high Elasticity, high Impact Strength, and is primarily for Dynamic Loading
A grade 8 bolts properties are, mid Ductility, high Tensile Strength, high Brittleness, very high Hardness, low Toughness, mid Elasticity, mid Impact Strength, and a grade 8 bolt is more for Static Loading however it can be used in some Dynamic Load situations
so for tow hooks, hitches, winch bumpers ect it is best to use gr 5 bolts. now with that sed if you have a gr 8 on something you don't need o run out and change it unless your jerking on it all the time you'll most likely be fine however switching to gr 5 would be an idea if its ever removed
 
  #18  
Old 03-29-2006, 02:19 PM
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Default RE: tow hucks

OK so what should i use for my tow hooks/brackets now?? G5 or G8, your saying G5 ryans??? Wouldnt it take a hell of alot of force to sheer a G8?? wut about when your not jerking and you just have a constant tention...or a sudden jerk and then just the constant dead weight of the stuck vehicle, you'd still use G5?
 
  #19  
Old 03-29-2006, 02:59 PM
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Default RE: tow hucks

G8 bolts will be fine they are used all of the time for this application. But if your buying bolts anyway you could just get the G5 bolts.
Its up to you
 
  #20  
Old 03-30-2006, 01:33 PM
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Default RE: tow hucks

Here is a SAE chart I dug up. Looks to me that G8 is 20 -25% stronger. Always have run G8, and they also bend, in my experience. Don't suspension kits come with G8 (dynamic loading?)? If your bolt head has three ridges it's G5, and 6 ridges are G8.

Make your own informed decision. If you want more info, a college library, preferably tech./engineering, should have design books with more info. BTW, I have a BSME.

I can't get it to print as a chart, kind of hard to read. First column is bolt size, the next 2 columns are G2, the next 2 columns are G5, the last 2 columns are G8. First column of each is coarse thread second column of each is fine thead.


Bolt Tensile Strength (Breaking Strength -lbs)

BoltDia Grade 2 Grade 5 Grade 8
(in) Coarse Fine Coarse Fine Coarse Fine
1/4 2350 2700 3800 4350 4750 5450
5/16 3900 4300 6300 6950 7850 8700
7/16 7850 8800 12800 14400 15900 17800
1/2 10500 11800 17000 19200 21300 24000
9/16 13500 15000 21800 24400 27300 30400
5/8 16700 18900 27100 30700 33900 38400
3/4 24700 27600 40100 44800 50100 56000

 


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