I have a 95 ram 1500 with 5.9l in it, when i start it it idles rough, and when i get to 50 my torque converter locks and the truck shakes really bad, i was getting a trouble code on the egr and replaced it also did the vaccumm switch when i was in there, drove it for a while nothing still running like garbage then i got the code again last night code 32 (an open or short condition detected in the egr solenoid circ, possible air/fuel ratio imbalance not detected during diagnosis.. i have replaced the fuel filter, egr sol, egr vac switch, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, im all out of ideas...

 

welcome to DF...

2 things come to mind, 1 being the o2 sensor (last choice) and the other being a tranny issue. could your tranny be shuttering when the tc is locked? when was the last time the tranny was serviced? if it's been a while, take it in and get it checked.

your TC may be on it's way out. if it breaks your looking at a possible tranny rebuild, get it checked.

 

I just replaced the o2 sensor a few months ago i am goign to have the fluid changed today who knows the last time it was changed, would anything be wrong with my motor??

 

how does your truck accellerate? if there is a problem with the TC it could affect how the motor runs. but you mentioned it is running rough at idle.... how did the plugs look when you yanked them.

check your fuses to see if there is any that are blown. I had a shorted wire on my o2 sensor causing a problem and a fuse blew. it ran like crap intermittantly. your egr solenoid circuit may be fused and have a similar problem.

this is what i'd do... most likely in this order too...

1) tuneup... plugs cap & rotor, wires if they are original
2) o2 sensor
3) check the plenum gasket for leakage
4) test the cat to see that it's not plugged (read the FAQ on how to test it, top of the gen2 forum)
5) do a compression test to see if all the cylinders are fairly even in compressison.
6) if comp test fails, then do a leak down test to determine why it is failing.

one other thing it could be is your PCM may be going bad.

anyway, alot to digest here, hope some of it helps.

 

Try what Steve suggested first. If you still have a problem try a vacuum gauge. They are pretty cheap and a good tool for a driveway mechanic to have. If you know how to read them, they are a very good first diagnosis tool. check this out for help:
http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...acuumLeaks.htm

It sounds like you may just have a flat out vacuum leak. You should have ~20 in-hg at idle +/- 3 or 4 assuming you don't have a big cam. If you don't check for cracked hoses/bs fittings for the vent controls. If you have a vacuum leak somewhere it will severely effect your low end load power (as when the TC locks) and also cause a lean condition that will make your pcm DUMP fuel to try to correct it.

 

Well i changed the tranny fluid, nothing, i blocked off the egr to think that i may have gotten a bad egr but thats not it it still runs like crap, then i plugged all the lines to (elminate) if i had a vaccuum leak nothing, sprayed the mass air flow sensor with cleaner and sprayed aroud the intake manifold and all the lines incase i missed something but of course nothing.. it still runs the same shutters bad when tc locks, sounds like its missing or something but i have replaced everything i am still getting a egr fault code, b4 i blocked it off but the dgr is new and so is the little vacuum tree on the side of the manifold........

 

one suggestion i have is to find the connector to the tranny that sends the lock/unlock signal to the torque conveter lockup solenoid and un-plug it. if it is the TC when it locks up, this should stop it from locking up. if that's the case then you need to swap the TC ASAP before it self destructs and takes out the rest of the tranny with it.

edit: and oh yeah, if it hasnt been mentioned before, download the manual from the merry christmas thread tacked to the top of the 2nd gen forum. It should show you where the solenoid is (more or less) even though it's a 2001 manual. better to have it I say...