grinding noise - brakes or ball joints?
#1) Ridges are OK in the rotors. Anyone who tells you to turns the rotors is an idiot.
#2) Get lifetime warranty pads. Most of the time, the difference between cheap pads and lifetime warranty is about $5. If the pads ever break while you own the truck, you take them and the original receipt back and get new pads for free. I just did that with plug wires for my car. I can never understand why people won't pay decent money on brake parts.
#3) While you are at it, pull the rotors and replace/regrease the wheel bearings. After 84,000 miles, fresh wheel bearings wouldn't hurt.
#2) Get lifetime warranty pads. Most of the time, the difference between cheap pads and lifetime warranty is about $5. If the pads ever break while you own the truck, you take them and the original receipt back and get new pads for free. I just did that with plug wires for my car. I can never understand why people won't pay decent money on brake parts.
#3) While you are at it, pull the rotors and replace/regrease the wheel bearings. After 84,000 miles, fresh wheel bearings wouldn't hurt.
Vw has a good point with the "regrease the wheel bearings" idea. If the ball joints are bad - you should be able to get some movement with a "12 to 6" pull on the wheel. I still would have you buddys shop check those out for sure - a broken ball joint usually leads to a broken truck and worse. I would not trust any dealer shop if I were you. Always get a 2nd opinion. You can change the rotors and pads for less than $90 yourself if you have some tools and mechanical knowledge. That would be my 1st choice with your grinding noise. Don't get the rotors turned - get new ones!!!!! they are like $30 each a NAPA. they have a tendancy to warp on these trucks - so making them thinner by turning them only will make the warping problem worse. I had a local shop give me a $400+ estimate to do what I did for $90 - so look out!!!!!
In the original post you noted that you just had the truck to the dealership and they flushed the braking system. Did the truck make this grinding noise before they got their hands on it? I'm sure that while they were flushing the system that they would have looked for anything else they could possibly find and say that it needs to be fixed. Worn brake pads, wheel bearings or a scared rotor would ahve been on their fix it list. They probably wouldn't have checked the run-out of the rotor to see if its warped though.
I don't see how a worn ball joint could, or would, make a grinding sound while braking or driving straight. (I could see it making noise while turning or whiel the suspension moves up and down) So, now I'm thinking, "what did the dealer's monkey touch while he did what they say they did and how could they have messed it up or put it back together wrong".
Could a warped rotor cause the caliper to grind against it's monting/contact points as it 'rides' the rotor back and forth? plus cause the brake shuddering as noted in the original post?
Also, something making a grinding noise will soon produce some 'grindings'. Look aound for rust or metallic looking dust where any two parts come together.
I don't see how a worn ball joint could, or would, make a grinding sound while braking or driving straight. (I could see it making noise while turning or whiel the suspension moves up and down) So, now I'm thinking, "what did the dealer's monkey touch while he did what they say they did and how could they have messed it up or put it back together wrong".
Could a warped rotor cause the caliper to grind against it's monting/contact points as it 'rides' the rotor back and forth? plus cause the brake shuddering as noted in the original post?
Also, something making a grinding noise will soon produce some 'grindings'. Look aound for rust or metallic looking dust where any two parts come together.
Soemtimes the easiest fix may be difficult to find, but also make sure your caliper is bolted in place still. One of mine broke off of it's mount on my Jeep while rock-crawling, and I drove for at least 10 miles before I noticed a "grinding" sound when I hit my brakes and checked it out. The rotor and wheel kept it in place, but the caliper would grind against the rotor when hitting the brakes. Had to crimp off the rear brakes for my 300 mile trip home.
Once again, I must say thanks to all you guys - this is great info. My truckwas making any type of grinding noise PRIOR to taking it to the dealer......that experience has prompted me to buy a manual (Chilton) and to start learning about maintenance/repair on my own so I can do this stuff myself! Other than using a manual, tinkering, assisting friends w/ their repair, etc, and using a forum like this...would anyone recommend taking an automotive class somewhere, or would I be just as well suited to doing all the aforementioned stuff to learn?
As far as my truck, ended up replacing the pads and rotors.....and now everything is as good as new......just tonight I read your posts about the bearings - didn't think about that......anyway, thanks again for your help - I love these forums!
ps - as far as the ball joints - couldn't get the tires to move at all whatsoever while holding them at 12 & 6 o'clock.....
As far as my truck, ended up replacing the pads and rotors.....and now everything is as good as new......just tonight I read your posts about the bearings - didn't think about that......anyway, thanks again for your help - I love these forums!
ps - as far as the ball joints - couldn't get the tires to move at all whatsoever while holding them at 12 & 6 o'clock.....







