Power lock won't unlock
It's just the passenger side. It'll lock the doors, but not unlock them. The drivers side works fine and also locks and unlocks the passenger side. Any ideas on where to start?
I think you and I have the same problem. My pass. door will everyonce in a while lock or unlock but 99% of the time it just buzzes when you hit either the lock button on the door or the key fob. I can hear it trying to lock or unlock but it just will not do it most of the time. I need to try to find the time to take the panel off and see. Let me know if you find out before me. Thanks
ORIGINAL: petekf4qoe
I think you and I have the same problem. My pass. door will everyonce in a while lock or unlock but 99% of the time it just buzzes when you hit either the lock button on the door or the key fob. I can hear it trying to lock or unlock but it just will not do it most of the time. I need to try to find the time to take the panel off and see. Let me know if you find out before me. Thanks
I think you and I have the same problem. My pass. door will everyonce in a while lock or unlock but 99% of the time it just buzzes when you hit either the lock button on the door or the key fob. I can hear it trying to lock or unlock but it just will not do it most of the time. I need to try to find the time to take the panel off and see. Let me know if you find out before me. Thanks

To the original poster, sounds like he has dirty contacts under the switch because you didn't mention the buzzing sound. It's very easy to take apart...unfortunately, it's also very easy to break if it's weathered enough. If you don't want to take it apart, you can just remove the lock/unlock box and soak it in ethyl alcohol and hope it cleans enough of the contacts to allow constant unlocking when you use it...yes the alcohol will evaporate......DON'T PUT IT BACK IN SECONDS AFTER DUNKING IT, BE SURE THAT IT IS DRY FIRST....you never know sometimes
.Those switches are normally a three position rocker type switches, middle being a ground or positive. It happens to all electronic door locks, so don't get to mad at it, lol. OR...replace it like stated above
ORIGINAL: silvercoupe97
To the original poster, sounds like he has dirty contacts under the switch because you didn't mention the buzzing sound. It's very easy to take apart...unfortunately, it's also very easy to break if it's weathered enough. If you don't want to take it apart, you can just remove the lock/unlock box and soak it in ethyl alcohol and hope it cleans enough of the contacts to allow constant unlocking when you use it...yes the alcohol will evaporate......DON'T PUT IT BACK IN SECONDS AFTER DUNKING IT, BE SURE THAT IT IS DRY FIRST....you never know sometimes
.
Those switches are normally a three position rocker type switches, middle being a ground or positive. It happens to all electronic door locks, so don't get to mad at it, lol. OR...replace it like stated above
To the original poster, sounds like he has dirty contacts under the switch because you didn't mention the buzzing sound. It's very easy to take apart...unfortunately, it's also very easy to break if it's weathered enough. If you don't want to take it apart, you can just remove the lock/unlock box and soak it in ethyl alcohol and hope it cleans enough of the contacts to allow constant unlocking when you use it...yes the alcohol will evaporate......DON'T PUT IT BACK IN SECONDS AFTER DUNKING IT, BE SURE THAT IT IS DRY FIRST....you never know sometimes
.Those switches are normally a three position rocker type switches, middle being a ground or positive. It happens to all electronic door locks, so don't get to mad at it, lol. OR...replace it like stated above
Any idea how it comes out before I start prying at things with a screwdriver?
Okay, got it out of the door and disassembled. Tool of choice for the whole procedure: butter knife.
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I cleaned up all the contacts, but that didn't do it.
Then I noticed that the "click" wasn't as crisp when I tried to "unlock," like there was for the "lock" and window "up" and "down." And sometimes there was no click at all. So I took it back apart as messed with the copper contact-flappers until the "click" was right.
Works great now. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
For future reference, you can pop off the entire assembly off the door, back first and then the front (dull side of a butter knife worked good for me). Disconnect the wiring harness with a squeeze and then CAREFULLY pop off the white underside of the unit. The tabs holding it on look really delicate, so be careful. That will reveal the guts, for cleaning, adjusting, etc.
If you're not getting a good "click," the copper contacts can be manipulated if needed (again, the knife worked sweet). Eyeball the tab where the rocker control for the lock (or window) makes contact. It's the smaller inner tab (which wasn't immediately obvious to me). I pried it up slightly to get "easier action." It took three tries, but it worked.
Oh, and don't freak out if the copper-flapper-deal falls off in the process. They go back on easily.
Then I noticed that the "click" wasn't as crisp when I tried to "unlock," like there was for the "lock" and window "up" and "down." And sometimes there was no click at all. So I took it back apart as messed with the copper contact-flappers until the "click" was right.
Works great now. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
For future reference, you can pop off the entire assembly off the door, back first and then the front (dull side of a butter knife worked good for me). Disconnect the wiring harness with a squeeze and then CAREFULLY pop off the white underside of the unit. The tabs holding it on look really delicate, so be careful. That will reveal the guts, for cleaning, adjusting, etc.
If you're not getting a good "click," the copper contacts can be manipulated if needed (again, the knife worked sweet). Eyeball the tab where the rocker control for the lock (or window) makes contact. It's the smaller inner tab (which wasn't immediately obvious to me). I pried it up slightly to get "easier action." It took three tries, but it worked.
Oh, and don't freak out if the copper-flapper-deal falls off in the process. They go back on easily.



