So I replaced the brake booster and blead all the brakes and all of them except the rear driver side gushed out. The rear driver one just kind of seaped out when I opened it. Also I'm not sure if the rod on the new booster is long enough because it's not hitting the button above the brake peddle that turns the brake lights off when your not using them. So right now I have to pull up on the brake peddle so it doesn't drain my battery. Now the brakes work better now that I replaced the booster but the brakes are still real soft and don't really start braking till I'm close to the floor. Do I need to replace the master cylinder too, or do I tell Checkers the brake booster they sold me is a piece of @#$% and ask them to order me another one? Thanks for your help guys. I'll get a pic on soon of it.

Ken

 

Does the rod itself have an adjustment on it? Something changed with the new booster being installed. Look for any adjustment points between the pedal and the master cylinder.
Usually when the master cylinder is installed,the rod should just slightly push in on the plunger.
Id check for a return spring on the brake pedal.
You may just want to look for a universal return spring to hold that pedal far enough back.
As far as the rear WC trickling out, replace the wheel cylinder if full removal of the bleeder still don't give you a good squirt of fluid when applying the brakes. the bleeder may just be clooged up.

 

I still don't know why my brakes are so soft. Would I need to adjust the calipers? I know I need to buy new pads and hopefully I can laser the rotor.

Ken

 

I myself never do front brakes without replacing the rotors.
I do alot of them as side jobs and will not even attemp cutting ANY rotor.
As far as calipers go, there is no adjustments on them.
However, do make sure all the sliding hardware on the caliper moves freely. I use anti-sieze on all contact points and threads on the bolts.

 

First let me ask, why did you bleed your brakes if you was just changing out the Booster? You shouldnt have had to open the system up for that. Does your truck have ABS on the rear or all 4 wheels? If so there is a differant method to bleeding ABS brakes then there is for regular non-ABS brakes.
Honestly, it sounds like they may have gave you the wrong booster, but as was stated above the rod has an adjustment to it, jst screw it out to where it is the same as you old one. I would need a very detailed discription of everything you have done to get closer to why you are having the problems you discribe.

 

I had a similar problem with my brakes but I did not go to all that trouble. The brake booster on your truck is vacuum controlled and I found that my problem was actualy a vacuum leak. Check all of your vacum lines and make sure not a are cracked or broken.

 

Is that why you replaced the booster in the first place? If so, not gonna change a soft pedal...when the booster fails, the pedal will be very hard to push, the opposite of the problem you're having. Master cylinder, a leak, or severely out of adjustment rear brakes are the most likely causes of a soft pedal...have you checked for any leaks, the main frt. to rear line loves to rust away between the gas tank and the frame, could be leaking but not yet enough to leave drips on the ground.

 

I actually don't have any leaks at all, and before I replaced the power booster, the only way I could we come to a stop was pressing down on the brake pedal with both feet. After I replaced it, it was fine but real soft even after bleeding the brakes. The only reason why I had to bleed the brakes was because I needed to remove the master cylinder from the booster and out of the way just to get the booster out. I looked at the old booster and there wasn't anyplace to unscrew the rod to make it longer and push the brake pedal out so that the lights don't stay on. So I am thinking that they sold me the wrong booster.

Ken

 

Did you bleed the master cylinder? I replaced the booster on a camper I have a few years ago. I had the same problem you are describing. The rod just didn't seem to fit and the brakes were soft. Once we bled out the mc everthing worked fine.

 

I completly removed the master cylinder and drained it. A total drain and flush, so I'm really confused.