Brake Rotor Question????
Hello all,
I just bought a 98 Ram 1500 4X2, 5.2L, Ext Cab. The rear brakes were changed on it about 7 moths ago. I need to get the front brakes done on it. I'd like to do it myself, but I hate doing brakes when you have to redo/repack the bearings and seals, etc. when you change the rotors.
So my question is...Does my 98 Ram 1500 4X2, 5.2L, Ext Cab have the rotors that just slip on over the "sealed bearings". Or do you have to remove the hub assembly and "redo" the bearings and seals when changing the rotors?
I just bought a 98 Ram 1500 4X2, 5.2L, Ext Cab. The rear brakes were changed on it about 7 moths ago. I need to get the front brakes done on it. I'd like to do it myself, but I hate doing brakes when you have to redo/repack the bearings and seals, etc. when you change the rotors.
So my question is...Does my 98 Ram 1500 4X2, 5.2L, Ext Cab have the rotors that just slip on over the "sealed bearings". Or do you have to remove the hub assembly and "redo" the bearings and seals when changing the rotors?
Yes, you've got bearings that need repacked...2000 they went to the sealed hub on 2wd trucks.
It's not that bad to do...remove the dust cap, cotter pin, nut, flat washer, and outer bearing...put the nut back on the spindle a couple of threads...now pull the rotor off while keeping the hub part on the edge, not centered, so the nut will catch the bearing...this will pop the bearing and seal out without damage, been doing it this way for years...I've never bought a seal puller, I think they do more damage to the seal. Even if you do damage the bearing or seal, they're cheap and may even need replaced anyway. Put some latex gloves on, stick some bearing grease in your hand, and pack the bearings that way, or buy a lil' bearing packer, probably only $10 or so for a cheap one.
Wipe out the old grease if reusing the rotors, and/or apply some new grease in the new rotors...put the inner bearing in there and tap the seal gently until flush with the hub...put the rotor on the spindle, install the outer bearing, washer, and nut...spin the rotor while snugging the nut...do that a couple of times to make sure the bearings are seated...I've never 'torqued' a wheel bearing before and haven't had any problems...don't forget the cotter pin and dust cap...you could always drive it around the block or something, jack it back up and make sure there's no bearing play to be sure they were seated.
It's not that bad to do...remove the dust cap, cotter pin, nut, flat washer, and outer bearing...put the nut back on the spindle a couple of threads...now pull the rotor off while keeping the hub part on the edge, not centered, so the nut will catch the bearing...this will pop the bearing and seal out without damage, been doing it this way for years...I've never bought a seal puller, I think they do more damage to the seal. Even if you do damage the bearing or seal, they're cheap and may even need replaced anyway. Put some latex gloves on, stick some bearing grease in your hand, and pack the bearings that way, or buy a lil' bearing packer, probably only $10 or so for a cheap one.
Wipe out the old grease if reusing the rotors, and/or apply some new grease in the new rotors...put the inner bearing in there and tap the seal gently until flush with the hub...put the rotor on the spindle, install the outer bearing, washer, and nut...spin the rotor while snugging the nut...do that a couple of times to make sure the bearings are seated...I've never 'torqued' a wheel bearing before and haven't had any problems...don't forget the cotter pin and dust cap...you could always drive it around the block or something, jack it back up and make sure there's no bearing play to be sure they were seated.
not 100% positive....but once the tire is off, pull the brake caliper off and the rotor should come right off, i didnt change mine but i remember falling off when i changed my brake pads, but ive got a 97 5.2 4x4



