overheating
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From: Massachusetts (Central)
overheating
This is not the problem with the dodge, its with a '95 Chrysler LHS. The car's temp will spike and coolant will overflow out of the resivoir (the pressure cap is on the resivoir, nothing on the radiator). The thermostat is not the problem, replaced it anyways, i do not think the radiator is plugged, correct me if i am wrong but if the radiator is plugged then the top of the radiator should be hot while the bottom is cold, right? So is my overheating issue the waterpump? Also, if anyone is familiar with this car, where is the waterpump, i know that it is underneath the front main cover, but what pulley runs it, is it the crank pulley, because there is two with two seperate belts?
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RE: overheating
A couple of possibilities...I think there's at least 1 air bleeder on the t-stat housing, is all of the air bled out? Maybe silly, but is the t-stat in the right direction? If the radiator is plugged, yes one side will be hot, the other cooler, but the t-stat will cause the same thing, possibly defective. Pretty sure the water pump is driven by the timing belt on those vehicles, haven't done one before to know for sure tho.
If at all possible, try running the car without the t-stat, like remove it and put some rtv around the gasket area...if it doesn't overheat, you know the water pump is circulating coolant and the radiator isn't plugged, so it'd be between air pockets or a defective t-stat. Or the fan(s) aren't coming on, but that would be pretty obvious.
If at all possible, try running the car without the t-stat, like remove it and put some rtv around the gasket area...if it doesn't overheat, you know the water pump is circulating coolant and the radiator isn't plugged, so it'd be between air pockets or a defective t-stat. Or the fan(s) aren't coming on, but that would be pretty obvious.
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From: Massachusetts (Central)
RE: overheating
Its not a defective t-stat, it has overheated about a month ago and i replaced it, was fine until the other day. There is an air bleeder but how do you actually let the air out? Also, now that i think about it the fans might not have come on, can't remember, the fans are electric, so they would only come when the car gets up to temp right? Also, if it were the fans would that actually cause it boil over right when it gets to temp, when the t-stat opens?
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RE: overheating
How is the temp gauge on it, just cold/hot or actual temp? The t-stat is probably around 190 to start opening and near 200 fully open...the fan should come on low speed around 225-230, and high speed at around 235-240.
So you replaced the t-stat a month ago...and it's been fine until now? Nothing with the cooling system has been opened/removed/replaced? Not really possible to go that long without overheating if there was an air pocket, so air is pretty much eliminated. But for the record, the repair manual describes it best...
No, as said above, the fans don't come on for quite awhile after t-stat opening, it should take a fair amount of time for it to get that hot and need the fans...with the given info so far, the question of yours I quoted says to me the t-stat is not opening...as you're watching the gauge and expecting the t-stat to open, it's not, and of course starts boiling since it's not flowing thru the radiator.
EDIT: Silly me forgot one thing...if the pressure cap is not holding pressure, the coolant/water will boil at 212 or slightly higher...it has to be pressurized in order to run above 212. Maybe take the cap to AutoZone and see if they can pressure test it, to eliminate that as a possibility...
So you replaced the t-stat a month ago...and it's been fine until now? Nothing with the cooling system has been opened/removed/replaced? Not really possible to go that long without overheating if there was an air pocket, so air is pretty much eliminated. But for the record, the repair manual describes it best...
22. Be sure that the radiator drain is closed. Open the thermostat bleed valve. Install a 1/4-inch diameter clear hose that is approximately 48 inches in length, to the end of the bleed valve and the other end into a clean container.
23. Slowly refill the coolant reservoir until a steady stream of coolant flows out of the thermostat bleed valve. Gently squeeze the upper radiator hose until all of the air is removed from the system.
24. Close the bleed valve and continue to fill up the coolant reservoir bottle to the proper level. Install the cap back on the bottle and remove the hose from the bleed valve.
25. Start the engine and allow to run until normal operating temperature is reached.
26. Check the cooling system and automatic transaxle for leaks and correct fluid level. Be sure that the thermostat bleed valve is closed once the cooling system has been bled of any trapped air.
23. Slowly refill the coolant reservoir until a steady stream of coolant flows out of the thermostat bleed valve. Gently squeeze the upper radiator hose until all of the air is removed from the system.
24. Close the bleed valve and continue to fill up the coolant reservoir bottle to the proper level. Install the cap back on the bottle and remove the hose from the bleed valve.
25. Start the engine and allow to run until normal operating temperature is reached.
26. Check the cooling system and automatic transaxle for leaks and correct fluid level. Be sure that the thermostat bleed valve is closed once the cooling system has been bled of any trapped air.
Also, if it were the fans would that actually cause it boil over right when it gets to temp, when the t-stat opens?
EDIT: Silly me forgot one thing...if the pressure cap is not holding pressure, the coolant/water will boil at 212 or slightly higher...it has to be pressurized in order to run above 212. Maybe take the cap to AutoZone and see if they can pressure test it, to eliminate that as a possibility...