Yeah, that's the way I ordered them, left and right ... but they should be identical.

 

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would someone explain this to me quickly..... ive changed disc brakes before but never drums...... so im not real familiar with them. is the 'spring' connected to the drum brake itself? and is it disconnected by unscrewing a bolt or does it snap off with your fingers? thanx.



and also, Rom, in your original post you said bleeding the brakes is not required..... i just wanna double check that its ok not to?

 

The spring connects to the front SHOE and the upper post that the shoes butt up against. When you take the spring off the post, the front shoe will fall forward, away from the post.

You can get a tool to do it ... or a really big common screwdriver. Fingers usually aren't strong (or armored) enough.

 

Thanks for the awesome idea, i just did this to my half ton and its amazing, prob the best money iv spent on this truck yet, the brakes in thease trucks always made me uneasey now its way firmer and my truck doesent dive anymore, its wicked, thanks again, it went really really smooth

 

any luck on the 1500?? with the 35's i could use some better beaking power

 

i have a 99 1500 4x4 with 33's and it helped tons and was really quick, bleeding is necesary though unless you plan on bench bleeding the wheel cylinder whitch is a pain in the butt.

 

i did the swap into my 99 half ton and have now gone though two of the one ton wheel cylinders they seem to have ruptured making for very dangerous driving because i only have half my brakes and if i top up the master cylinder its just got to much air in the system from it all leaking out and then that fluid just leaks out so as for now im abandoning this quest because it is downright scary, and now i have to buy new pads go back to stock wheel cylinders and clean up my brakes, all for nothing, sure there was more power but for what 700km (they didnt blow at the same time i have replaced them about 300km apart)

 

[align=left]I have the BPV and frankly just want to remove the thing rather than mess with modifying it.....it's already pretty rusted and I don't want to imagine how expensive it is to replace if it fails. Anyone have any suggestions other than replumbing the rear lines and installing an adjustable proportioning valve instead? I do have ABS rear and evidently I need to replace the Rear Wheel Speed Sensor, but after 2 trips to Autozone I still can't seem to get the right part. Anyone know that Part #???
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Ok just read TSB...forget the how to remove part of my question! Since I run 75% UNWEIGHTED I want to put a manually adjustable proportioning valve inline. Suggestions??

Would anyone recommend upgrading the rear wheel cylinders at the same time or see what kind of difference it makes first.
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So I picked up a pair of these wheel cylinders the other day for my '97 2500 4x4. Problem is...They don't fit. Turns out they have a longer "body" that interferes with a tab on the backing plate. I can either grind the tab down, which doesn't sit all that well with me, or go find the short-body version that has the mushroom-style caps at the ends.

I found my wheel cylinders at Advance Auto, p/n 3641387.

Has anyone encountered this before?

I drive mostly unweighted most of the time anyway...Is this a wise upgrade?