Low-Pressure switch:
*the answer to your question is, the switch can be removed without refrigerant loss*

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cool thanks....and of course it's a dealer item, and it's saturday.....which makes tomorrow sunday..

 

ok well i just went out there and hooked the gauge up to the l/p side, jumped the switch so the compressor would stay on, and the gauge actully went from 90 to around 100....
again i couldnt check the high side
but with this info anyone have a guess?

 

Didn't come down any? There is something wrong. If you haven't got the stuff you may end up takeing it to a a/c shop.

 

Ok, lets start at the begining. Two weeks ago the system was recharged and it was blowing cold, now it is not blowing cold and the compressor only cycles with the low pressure switch bypassed. We can rule out the system being overcharged because the a/c would have never blown cold to begin with. So we have only two options left, either you have a restriction or a leak. My money is on a leak because if you had a restriction forcing the pressure too high jumping the low pressure switch would not turn the compressor on because the high pressure cut-out would shut it off. And if for some reason it did'nt the engine would probably overheat from the compressor dragging it down and causing the cooling fan to slow down. My suggestion is to have it sucked down to see how much refrigerant is actualy in the system and have a vaccum put on the system and see if it has a leak. Good luck

 

low refridgerant will cause the compressor to cycle
go to the auto-parts store, pick up a R134 re-fill kit plus a couple of extra cans of R134. it's for all vehicles 95 and later
follow the directions and with your ac on max note if one, the compressor starts engaging/stays engaged and two it starts to cool down
it may need a couple of cans to get corrected and once full (won't take anymore refridgerant) you will likely find it stays up/cool for the rest of the season

good luck

 

I would rather do like big black said and refill it after the leak is fixed. Use a thermometer in one of the vent's, I think you look for a 30 deg drop in temp and a low side pressure of 40.

 

Had the same problem drove the guys at the ac shop nutssss...after a few hours and numerous searches for leaks we disconnected the ac system and plugged it in, like magic the cold air blew out but not at full force. The problem for me lies that the air is not circulating, it releases some air in but not all thus it "freezes"(gets very cold and have moisture) the pipes. my ac guys knows nothing but ac therefore he cant replace. He said it was an evaporizer? that acts like a thermostat letting the air in and out and unfortunately for me its stuck in open very little...anybody know where the valve would be at that opens and closes?

 

Had the same problem drove the guys at the ac shop nutssss...after a few hours and numerous searches for leaks we disconnected the ac system and plugged it in, like magic the cold air blew out but not at full force. The problem for me lies that the air is not circulating, it releases some air in but not all thus it "freezes"(gets very cold and have moisture) the pipes. my ac guys knows nothing but ac therefore he cant replace. He said it was an evaporizer? that acts like a thermostat letting the air in and out and unfortunately for me its stuck in open very little...anybody know where the valve would be at that opens and closes?

 

cgb864 is right that the compressor will cycle if the a/c is low on refrigerant,but, if you add cans of r134a to the system without knowing how much is still left in the system you might overcharge it and not only will it blow real hot but you will never find the actual problem. good luck