I've been reading and posting on here for a while now, learning quite a bit, trying to decide what I wanted to do with my stock truck. I did a basic tune-up on my truck right after I got it. Brass cap and rotor, new wires, NGK V-groove spark plugs. I also adjusted my TPS to set it at 0.75 volts. I felt the truck always ran good, especially compared to my Ford that I traded in for the Ram.

I also ported my throttle body. I took the ears off the top and opened up the area above the blades. I'm sure its not as good as a Fastman, since he also redoes the throttle body blades and uses milling machines that cost a few sheckels more than my drill press. I can't say that this mod by itself made a definate improvement.

Recently I got a Hypertech programmer from a fellow member. I put a 180 degree stat in, as recommended. The programmer helped, but I thought I could be getting more. So this weekend I put a new air filter housing on the truck. I went with a 14" diameter open element (the old carberator style filter), with a 2-1/2" high filter. I set things up so I can add a 3" high filter when this one needs to be replaced. I thought long and hard about this type of air cleaner, especially since I ran some air temperature tests (posted last winter on this site) and know that you are pulling warmer air in with this type of system. I've examined the stock setup and have never been thrilled with its design. So on went the new filter and a quick test drive to the local tractor pulls. WOW! That is what the truck needed. Better throttle response, and it helped on the low end. The wife isn't going to like the sucking noise that develops around 2000 - 2500 rpm, but oh well. At 1/10 the cost of a K&N FIPK or Air Raid, this was one of the better mods I've done.

Next, I decided to relocate the intake air temperature sensor to the air filter housing. Plenty of room to put it in there. I have some pictures of how I did this, I'll try to get up later. A quick note, I used a metric nut (14 mm with 1.5 threads per mm) to hold it in place. The sensor has 1/4" NPT threads, but I couldn't find a nut with those threads. The metric nut was close enough and I used pipe tape on the ends of the sensor to tighten it up. Not sure how much this mod helped yet, but it was easy to do.

Edit here: I also stuck a breather filter on the breather tube, driver's side. For the time being, I decided not to run the breather into the air filter housing, even though it has a knock-out for the breather. I wanted to keep my intake a little cleaner and not have the engine fumes going into the intake.

Sunday came and I was the only one around the house, so I got bored and decided to try the crank position sensor mod. Not an easy job but I got it done. Another step up in performance with this. Now I'm running the 93 octane setting using 89 octane gas, and I still don't have a problem with pinging when going to WOT, guess I'm lucky there. I moved the sensor towards the oil filter, which I think is advancing the base timing.

Brought the truck to work this morning, just driving normally. The combination really helped, especially on the low end power, which is where I want it. I don't normally hammer the truck and rarely go full throttle unless pulling the camper up a hill, so I don't have a baseline feel for the top end. Hopefully the adjustments I made will stick, I've heard the PCM will adjust to changes, so we'll see if the improvements continue to stay with the truck.

I haven't done anything to the exhaust. I'm pretty sure the previous owner gutted the cat, but I haven't verified this yet. I also think the exhaust is stock, maybe even original. Once the muffler goes, I'll redo the whole system, but I'm not going to put any money into it until it needs to be replaced.

So I brought the truck to a new level that I didn't even think I needed when I first bought the truck. It's all your fault. I knew the truck was better than my old Ford, now it's superior. So thanks for all your help and ideas on improving performance. Except for exhaust and a shift kit, I'm probably done with the mods unless I run into a lot of extra cash. Then it might be a Fastman, rollers, header, heads, M1 intake, blower, etc. Although if I have that kind of money, I might upgrade to a Cummins, which is well beyond what I really need in a truck. I'll keep ya posted on the improvements and try to get some pictures uploaded.

 

Glad to hear your having good results. It really is an addiction. Oh, and never say your done, because you will find that once you're hooked, it never ends. Even if you stop buying stuff just to install for the fun of it, you will find that when something breaks, you replace it with some part thats better then the stock part. [sm=icon_cheers.gif]

 

ITS A DISEASE I TELL YA

Congrats on all the new mods hopefully youll like what is next to come in the mods list

BNB

 

Do you have part numbers for the K&N setup you used?

 

AWD DSM 1: If you're asking about the air intake that I put on, the brand name was Mr. Gasket. Here is the link for Advanced Auto, I bought it at the store rather than online: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...artnumber=1480.

I chose this air cleaner over the similiar Edelbrock and Holly air filter assemblies because it had a raised base rather than a lowered base. I was worried about it hitting the throttle body linkage. This one fit on nicely, I just had to make an "S" bolt to fit down into the top of the TB. The kit came with a 1/4" threaded rod, but I didn't use it because I wasn't sure if I would have to return the unit in case it didn't fit. I found a 1/4" U-bolt I had laying around and bent it to shape. I pulled the throttle body off the truck so I could make sure I had the unit sitting correctly over the TB. You can't see everything when it is on the truck. Plus, until I got the threaded rod cut to length, I couldn't get it started in the TB, because it was hitting the cowl. Now that it is in place, I can remove the threaded rod without any problems. In order to get the filter on and off, I have to remove the rod. That isn't a problem because of its bent shape, it turns like a speed wrench. I put a nut on the bottom of the rod to lock it into place because the rod isn't tight when it is centered over the TB.

Some people have concerns with the nut coming loose and going into the intake. The whole rod would have to work its way out and the nut would have to come off in order for this to happen. Plus, even if it did go down into the intake, it still couldn't get into the combution chamber unless it took a miraculous bounce back up into an intake port. I probably should put some thread locker on the bolt. I'll check it often to make sure it isn't working its way loose. Same with the nut holding the AIT sensor in place.

 

Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks! I might try the same thing on mine.

 

I put some pictures on my gallery showing the IAt sensor in the intake and the intake installed on the truck. On the way home tonight I got behind a Ford pickup. He dropped below 55 in a passing zone. It was my Dodge bound duty to blow him away. I stepped on the gas a little, kicked it down to 3rd and was around him in no time. The truck was up to 65 real quick and I'm not even sure I had it to half throttle. It just purred like a mountain lion going past him. Can you tell I'm having fun! I just can't believe how much better this old girl is running now. The throttle response is beautiful. It sure seems like it takes less throttle to get the same response as before. I just wish I had a means of verifying the difference. The engineer/scientist in my likes to have factual data, but the ole seat of the pants is pretty good too.