And people wonder why I love old school cars like classic VW's. None of that **** happens, although Dubs have their fair share of problems, but nothing like minor voltage issues that will stop the vehicle in its tracks. The more I work on this Dodge and read these threads, the more confident I am at trying to expand my thinking, because you never know what little gremlin will rear its ugly head.

Thanks for the info! I sure hope the author gets some money back.

 

It sounds like the wire that had rubbed through on his was INSIDE the transmission pan somewhere. Meaning that I think I would replace the TPS first..... For the other guy - the TPS is the Throttle Position Sensor. It is located on the drivers side of the throttle body under the air cleaner. to replace it all you do is remove the air cleaner, unclip the wire harness, and remove the 2 screws from the tps with a torx screwdriver. Put the new one in, reset the computer, and you are good to go.

 

You don't have to take the air cleaner off, it's right below it on the TB and you can just unscrew it no problem. And how do you reset the computer?

 

Blast from the past. A lot of guys run air cleaners other than the stock one. Diconnect the neg. battery cable, turn the key to the start position for 20 seconds, then reconnect.

 

When the torque converter clutch stopped working on my 1995 46RH automatic transmission at around 190,000 miles, I first dropped the pan and carefully checked the wiring from the extermal plug socket on the driver's side that runs over to the pair of solenoids on the passenger side. These wires do look very exposed and have ample opportunity to develop a crack in their insulation that would ground to the metal case.

In my case, however, the torque converter clutch had just worn out and lost the last of its friction material..solenoid and wiring were not grounded...but I insisted that this double solenoid pack and its wires be replaced with new when the shop did the rebuild, along with a new torque converter rather than a rebuilt tc.

 

I have been having the very same symptoms, plus an additional one. My idle speed has increased from normal up to an area between 1100 to 1200. I have no check engine light comming on, so there is no code to read.
My mechanic spent an hour looking for various signs of causes such as vacum leaks, to scanning with the hand held type scanner.
Turned out the idle speed motor was showing sign of wear out so it was replaced. He then told me once replaced to take a drive and ger it up to 60 mph, this apparently resets the computer.
When I returned back to the garage it was cured, and operating as normal. I then drove less than a mile to the Bank, and at the first stop light it was back at high idle.
This problem still exsists off and on from normal to high idle, and at times it smells as though its running rich.
I just cam back from MA, with a car on my Trailer on the way down, and all went well up until about 2 hours of our destination. At that time the surging began and the T.C. was in and out of lockup.
I don't tow in Over-Drive, but at some points on I-90 on route to MA., there are some pretty good hills, and I put it in Over-Drive on the down side. On the way home we came up through NH., &, VT. and I drove with empty Trailer in Direct all the way back home to ON. Canada.
Short of writing a book here what else can I do to rid this problem. I haven't as of yet changed the TPS. I have put a C.O.2. Sensor on, and a Muffler shop Cat about 10,000 miles ago with the C.O.2. there as well. My Truck currently has 196,000 Miles not KM on it with a Tranny Rebuild at 153,000 new rad which caused it to fry in the first place, Plus a complete engine rebuild about 9000 miles ago.
Anyway I have quite a bit of coin in this Truck, I look after it and people can't believe its a 94 as to the condition.
Short of that any advice as to what to do next, as to the problem fix.
Thanks in advance for any help, I'm into this to deep to quit now.

 

I am going to try this if cleaning my TPS doesnt work. I can see haow it could have shorted as my tranny was just re-built. The re-builder must have accidentialy rubbed the wire or something.

 

My truck is an 01 1500 and is doing the same thing I recently ha mine rebuilt for the TCC going out. When I got it back and it ran for a 100 miles or so it started this surging it seems mine is doing it mainly on a slight incline or when the tranny wants to down shift. when I took it to the shop the tranny spec. can't get it to happen. He said it apeared to be a miss in the engine (BS) but I can't get it to happen when I get the mech to look at it either. Does anyone know if this will cause the truck to crater if this finally comes to a head or the wire your talking about finally breaks or wears through?

 

maybe you can figure this one out? My 96 diesel with 400k miles (ran great till 380k) is hesitating and running rough with the ac on when stopped at a light. It is OK in nuetral or park and semi ok when ac is off. I took it in to a dealership an 500 dollars later and it is the same. starting to stall now. Any answers? Thx

 

if anyone still has the surge after inspecting the wire on the bottom of the valve body and a new tps or two then you should do the spark plug wire re-route procedure. mine used to surge about 300 rpm and after the rebuild it still surged about 25-50 rpm. i did the re-route and my surge went away.

here's the tsb.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/18-48-98/18-48-98-v8.htm