yes i do have the death flash on it and i am ordering the programmer next week but my buddies truck has the same death flash sticker does it affect the v6 like it does the 318s

 

Considering that they are basicly the same motor (take the V6 and staple 2 more cylinders on the back) they should react the same. If he had lower gearing I could understand it puting you in a TIE maybe but still not BEATING a V8. But you say he even has similar gearing. You pretty much have the lightest truck they make ... 2wd - regular cab - short bed.

I don't get it ... [>:]

 

Doesn't suprise me... your buds truck probably creams you off the line. Hes got a quicker motor with about the same torque... and less weight. I get embarrased by v-6 tacomas and such that same way...until inertia overcomes mass.....then I'm a charging white rhino LOL
I read about this "death flash" stuff all the time...I always meant to ask my Dodge dealer buds what they do. There's usually a reason for it, and I know a programmer will help, but it's not the end all be all for solid and proper modifications.

Well lets say your truck was mine....and I was really savvy about going quick at the strip. Overall looks didnt matter as long as safety wasn't compromised. Remember, speed costs...how fast do you wanna go?
Oh..none of this will work if you engine isn't in a good state of tune and NOT using oil. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor , filters, PCV valve, all gotta be good.
Here's what I'd do....

First, I'd swap out the rear gears for 4:10s and ditch that factory track schlock for a detroit true trac. I'd make sure my rear brakes were adjusted properly. I don't know what rear tires you're running but they're about to go up in smoke. If you get wheel hop, bolt on a set of traction bars, so the snubber hits the front spring eye. The gear swap should take off about 7 tenths IF you can hook up the truck. FYI...gears will ehance ALL the other mods you know make...and NONE if these next mods will reach full potential with out gears.
Oh...you'll need to tweak your tires and shocks to hook up.... some nice fat sticky radials about 28 inches tall on 16x7.5 rims. Old school is about 275x 60. If you're willing to drive a bit more carefully on the street, you can remove the front sway bar. That will allow the front end to rise and transfer weight to the rear a bit better.

You've now spent the most money on the truck without going into the motor...so here's a couple easy mods....add a good cold air induction, 180 stat, and catback exhaust. When racing, lower your tailgate to decrease drag, if your strip allows it.

Your shortbed should be in the low 16s at about 92mph....when you get there, I'll suggest what to do next.

 

in one of your posts you mention that the lack of bottom end is the problem... if that's the case than get your flowmaster to a dual 2.25~2.35" out or a single 3". the dual 2.25 would be better as it's slightly more flow than the single 3". that will help get some low end back assuming you have dual 2.5"s. (you didnt mention that either so i'm guessing). your 1st purchase should be the hypertech or the superchips programmers. that will take care of the death flash. go get a 180 deg t-stat and put that in when your ready... the sooner the better.

once you have some extra cash.. do the headers, CAI and 50~52 mm throttle body (fastman). 50 mm is what's recommended for the 318's.

 

I would agree with the gear swap and Detroit trutrac...You would be suprised with the difference it will make.

After changing my gears it is like a serious shift kit and is fun to drive again. Turns the 35's over....

 

how much work is it to change the gears and how much does it cost i dont want 4.10 cause i dont want to be crusing at like 3500 rpm down the highway and do they have like 3.90 gears and how big of difference will this make

 

You'll be running about 2800 in OD with 4:10s and about 2650 with 3:92s at 65. You'd probably not notice much of an E/T diff. I see 3:92s on ebay and other sites often, as its a factory gear for many towing packages.

You'll want to have a good shop install the gears...it's the most costly mod but the most useful.

Example...when I was a pup, I owned a nice roadrunner I thought was pretty quick...but the chrondecks don't lie. 15:2s all day long with a 3:21 cog.

Dropped in a 3:91 pig in the old 8 3/4...remember those oldtimers? Went from 15:2 to 14:3 with NO other changes. I know gears work...of course I couldnt run 130 mph out on I-80....but when you can light 'em off at just a tap of the go pedal...

BTW, the cars NEW owner dropped in 4:30s and slicks and is in the low 13s....in a 3800 lb car with a 340 and small valve smogger heads...but thats another story...sighs (those were the days)

 

I would think mods listed would get you in the hi 16s depending on how bad that death flash is.


Gears will probably cost about 800 with install. If you have never done them, probably best to take it too a good shop as mentioned.

392s on a 30" dia tire spin around 2350rpms at 70mph on my 96 , figure the 410s will be 2550-2600rpms
Going from 3.55s w/30" tires to 392 with 28" slicks knocked .3 off my ets (4.18 final approx) when my truck was 2 seconds slower. I figure the gears/slicks worth more now with much higher hp.

I tried 7 different exhaust setups, 4 intake setups. Behind the cat you will barely see any gains, just different tone/volume.
Ramairbox with 14x3" filter ducted from the bumper was the best intake setup giving at least double the results of any other cai.
Weight reduction does help and is free hp. With ets where they are, you can remove anything you want without issues. Faster you are and lighter the back end, the more traction becomes a problem.

I would suggest different mods myself.
Ramairbox, 1.7rr, headers and hi flow cat or no cat with either Superchips or Hypertech & a bit of wt reduction would give you a low 16 second et I suspect.

 

I think you may be having a problem that's bigger than just an air intake - I was running 16.9 ~ 17.1 with a stock 318 with a custom dual exhaust system and an automatic in my '97 Extended Cab. Your '01 SWB should be quicker than that. How is you tranny?

 

really. my transmission is perfect the truck only has 52000 miles on it did a tune up before went to the track 17.6 was my best truck usally gets a 18.1 or 17.9 im not sure whats going on with it

oh and did i mention that i got beat by a 4 banger sunfire at the track