Well after 6 weeks of waiting for parts and working on it a little each afternoon when I had the time and wasn't to tired I finaly have my truck back together. I installed new tie rod and ends new steering sabilizer new brakes and rotors and an m1 with 19lb performance injectors. I didn't seem to lose as much low end as most people seem to think I would. So far I have only had it up to about 60mph and the power difference is nice.


Now for the problems. My brakes don't seem as tight as they did before. I have checked for vacuem leaks and can't find any. I have bleed the break 3 times and I think they are sufficient. Is it possible I have less vacume now because of the m1 and that is causing my pedal to sink closer to the floor?

Next question what would cause the truck to keep running for 1-5 seconds after I turn the key off?

And now for my final question of the day. Has anybody ever taken their proprtioning valves out of their truck and just run streight off the master cylinder. If so what did you think of that setup and how much did it improve your breaking. If nobody here has done then I just might be the first in a few weeks.

What are your thoughts and opinions?

 

well. if your vacume was insuficent your pedal wouldnt sink the the floor.. that actually tells you that your booster is working properlly. you prolly STILL have air ian the lines.. ive heard reverse bleeding.. presurizing from the bleeders up to the resevior is the best way since air bubbles rise you would want the air to go up through its easiest route.. i ahd a problem with that when i went rear disk conversion.. and during my troubleshooting it.. i when to a live line sytstem.. what you are asking about.. called live lined.. and i am runnign it right now.. no distribution block and no abs modual. i know im gonna get flammed something fierice for this about safter and all.. but ill tell ya.. with the stock master cylinder.. it doesnt proved enough pressure to lock up the rear discs.. and i have tried..(since discs require more pressure to work then drusm do.. and the MC has a shorter bore for the rears then the front does) on wet pavement dirt and everything else.. they dont lock up .. no matter what i do.. maybe in the winter.. and ill test it before its too late.. but anyway.. live lined.. i like the results.. you dont ahve the plungers in the dist. block regulating wha pressure goes where.. you hit the pedal and the breaks just work..its nice. i really like it. i have a manual prop vavle im gonna install if i keep the abs out.. so i can dial in the rears incase they start locking for some reason.. i might do it to the front too.. depends.. i dunno.. i just like knowing that my brakes are the most basic system and they will work when i need them to..

that problem with it keep running for 1-5 seconds after the key is off is called 'run on" i used to know what causes it but i cant remember right now..if i think of it ill post back

 

The run on could be from your timing being off, did you pull the distributor when you installed your intake? I know you can't adjust the timing at the distributor on our trucks but I was thinking maybe you go it a tooth off on the gear. My $.02

 

I appreciate ya'lls input. I didn't pull the distributor or mess with anything timing related this time. I may have just gotten use to the braks in my maxima and that is what is causing me to think there is something wrong with the breaks in the truck. I got a chance to test out my new performance on my way to work lastnight. I had an older ford pull up next to me and try to get me to race him so I figured why not (keep in mind this was around 3:30 in the am and the roads were empty). So we slowed down to around 45mph and I dropped it into 2nd he honked 3 times and then we were off. I couldn't beleive how well it pulled I shifted to third around 5300 rpms (260,000 miles I was worried and didn't wanna go any higher) and it pulled extremely strong and wanted to keep going. well needless to say I hit my breaks once I broke 100mph and was about 3 car lengths in front of him and decided that was fast enough.

 

Regarding your brakes: check to see what your vacuum pressure is at the manifold. If I remember right vacuum should be at least in the 13 to 15 range. Since you just put on the new manifold your vacuum may have changed enough to cause some of your braking problems. As Scott8283 says, you probably also have air in your brake lines and need to work at getting it all out.

 

IIRC.. the vacume at aidle should be at or around 16inches.. or 18.. damn i cant remember

 

Mine's at 18 at idle, thats with an m1 manifold also.

 

whenever i race the 5.4 f150s we are pretty much side by side up till 45 or 50 then i steady pull from him.. with 33's and 3.55 gears..

 

thats right.. saposed to be 18.. im at 16 lol damnit

 

try gravity bleeding your brakes. just crack the bleeder valve and let it sit overnight. very little fluid will come out usually just what comes out from an air bubble bursting. an oldtimer did it to my 89 voyager after we sent about 2 hours bleeding and the peddle was still mushy. i had my doughts but it worked. worth a shot.