Hey guys. I'm looking at installing a Hayden Electric fan on my 99' 2500 5.9 gasser. Part #3690 1350 cfm, 9.8 amp draw. Numbers look pretty good to me and the price is pretty right too, (around $125 plus thermostat). Anyone run one of these or similar? Any thoughts or comments greatly welcomed. Thanks. Oops. Actually the price is only 64.99 plus 34.99 for adjustable thermostat. Think I'm puttin one on this weekend.

 

whats the CFM rating on it? and are you only thinking of putting one on? and are you thinking of leaving the stocker fan on too? i did a elec fan conversion and i havnt looked back since.. they are awesome.. added HP is nice and the motor just revs quicker..makes it more fun to drive.. with my setup i ran with 2 16" puller fans.. made from "procomp" and bought them off ebay for 30 or 40 bux.. make no mistake abou tit.. these things draw alot.. i think IIRC they pull close to 60 amps at startup and drop to 30 amps combined while running.. but holy crap they pull alot of air.. IIRC they pull 5500 CFM combined..

hers the link of the ones i have

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/16-IN...spagenameZWDVW

mine are setup kinda unique.. seperate circuits.. and seperate thermostates and are also ran off 80 amp selenoids instead of regular relays.. you should be more concerned with the start up amp draw then the normal constan running amp draw.. if you set up your circut/s with the idea of overkilling the start up amperage then you should be fine.. each circuit for mine can prolly handle up to 80 amps a peice.. way over then whats needed..

ALSO! make sure your alt is up to par.. i wouldnt suggest doing this with anything lower then a 136 amp alt..

results are nice.. the first fan is the work horse and only comes on when im parked for a minute but shuts off after a minute.. the ONLY time these fans combined didnt do the job was when i did my 2 minute long burn out.. they temp got close to 220 degs. but that would be expected.. i wasnt moving and the rpm's were higher then 4K.. normal every day driving.. they work great!!! its VERY rare that the second fan actually kiks on.. but when it does neither stay on for longer then 15 to 30 seconds.. i mean you can drive the truck and get out and pop the good and leave the truck running and put your hand behind the fans and actually feel the air get colder and colder and then they ll shut off.. i also have these wired so that i have control.. meaning either the t-stats control them or i can have them on all the time.. i can also shut them off totally makes it handy when you go wheeling and you think the water hole is deep enough to reach the blades...

they are also FRIGGEN loud too.. sounds like a pair of turbo jets under the hood.. and the suck a crap load of air.. i love mine.. i wish they came this way from the factoy..

note: if you have a CTD then i wouldnt suggest a elec fan.. they just dont work well with a 4 core radiator.. but if your a gasser like the most of us.. then youll benefit greatly.. alot of people told me the aperage draw and the running of the fans would put strain on the alt and would kill my mileage.. load o' ****.. 1st i dont see how osmehting that doesnt have any mechanical drag could possibly put drag on the motor.. espeically with the more modern alts and how effecient they are!!!! on that note.. bottom line is.. is your alt up for the task?

man i hope you like my novel lol i think i have pics of my setup in my gallery check it out!

 

Schott, do I need a different stat to run elec fans or is there another connection I make between the temp sensor and the gauge? I already swapped the stat once to a 180 degree, and to tell you the truth it was more work than I really expected, but if it is truly as worth it as you say it is, I am all for it. Towing my camper in the mountains of MT can build some heat up.

 

what you do here is buy 1 or 2 .. depending on what kind of setup you want.. electrically controled t-stats.. they are stand alone units and have no way intergrated with your stock/oem temp circuits.. they have small probes you push between the viens near the inlet section of the rad.. the prob has a metal wire going to a small box with 3 terminals on it and a dial.. the dial lets you be able to tune to what temp you want your fans to kick on at.. the three terminals simply get wired up as 1-12V 1 ground and the other is normally open signal wire..whent he probe senses the temp has been reeched by the setting on the dial, the relay inside closes.. these arnt rated for high amp draws by anymeans.. so the signal wire should be sent to a solodnoid/relay circuit to control the fans..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Painl...QQcmdZViewItem

this model from hayden is fixed.. comes on at a preset temp and turns off at a preset temp.. they work well. but with my setup and having dual fans.. and dual circutes.. i wanted one fan to come on as soon as the t-stat opend so that means it would come on at 180-185 degs.. and the second fan (where hte tstat probe is between the viens on the outlet section of the rad) comes on at 185-190 .. this means the second fan is the catch up fan.. if the first fan isnt doing its job very well.. the second fan will kick on and help the first fan to catch up.. added duty fan..

i looked on ebay for the stats that i have and i want able to find them.. something similar to this

http://cgi.ebay.com/Electric-cooling...QQcmdZViewItem

or like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/Cooling-Fan-Ther...ayphotohosting

the ideal spot for the probes would be INLINE with the coolant itself.. but.. unsure of the queality of the probe.. i didnt want the think to break apart when the fluid is being pumped by the water pump screaming at 4K rpm.. also.. RM_indy tried to inline his probes int the coolant but couldnt seal it well and would puff hot mist of coolant during his shifts running the 1/4.. in the rad is the easiest and most piece of mind...

if needed i can take pics someitme of my setup .. more detailed..

 

I plan on a single fan, 1350 cfm. Auto parts store lists this fan as a direct replacement for the stock fan. Also, my truck never sees that kind of rpm range as yours does, guess I just baby it too much, at least on the street. I plan on wiring the relay into my dash so I can run the fan in on/auto/off modes. I read somewhere that as a guideline you should provide about 500-600 cfm per 100 horsepower, so this seems to be in the ballpark. My truck has the heavy duty alternator but I'm not sure what the amp rating is. You're right that start -up draw is probably the biggest concern. As far as cooling goes, I have never seen the temp gauge go beyond the middle of the scale, even when sitting in a drive thru. And traffic around here is usually very light as I avoid in town driving as much as possible. I'll be checking out the pictures of your install and I 'll let you know if I have any more questions. Thanks for all replies.

 

i heard that base rule before too.. to tell you the truth i bet i could get away with just the one fan and just redesighn my mount/shroud that i built.. i just wanted to overkill it.. like everything else i do lol .... i am curious as for what the parts store said its a direct replacement for the stock one.. ive never heard this before.. a parts store actually told you its a bolt on replacement for your stocker fan? if you have the HD service group then you SHOULD have the 136 alt and shouldnt have any problem running one fan .. good luck and keep me posted! and im assuming your removing your stocker fan? have you given any thought to keepin the stock shroud in place or are you gonna remove it and/or will you be fabbing up a custom shroud/mount for the electric?

 

my fans are wired dual relay circuits to a single master switch inside. At the time i used my shroud as part of the bracing for my dual fans. So far the only time my ram got hot was sitting in Wally world parking lot for half hour with AC on in 120* texas heat. Love 'em otherwise

shott: just noticed our fans look the same. you said yours are procomp, my are from ebay too and they are super cool brand with same cfm ratings but lower amp ratings. Ive only got a 30amp inline fuse per circuit.

 

im assuming they are procomps.. b/c they are advertised as such.. not to be confused with the procomp tire wheel and suspension company... are your fans SPAL style? meaning are the fan blades straigh and not curved? i dont remember seeing super cool ones on ebay when i was getting ready to do mine.. and i wasnt able to get a good amp spec from the seller.. i had to take the risk myself and i had to hope they werent too much

 

they are a curved style

 

Yea it is a Hd so hopefully I'll be okay with the alternator. To clear things up a bit, the parts store listed it as a replacement rather than an auxillary to the clutch fan; they did not list it as a "bolt up replacement". Man, wouldn't that be sweet. Definately removing the stocker but I'm not sure about the shroud yet.Have to get the old one out of the way and see how everthing fits. Hopefully this all goes in this weekend. Oh yea and the price with thermostat is right around $110.