Cracked a brake drum today.
Some blue hair old lady pulled out in front of me this morning and I slammed the brakes on and I heard a loud pop.
The brakes felt a little wierd on rest of the way home so when I got home Istarted looking my truck over then I took off the wheels and dicovered a 7 inch crack runnin around the drum. What the heck I thought abs wouldn't let damage like that occur because of how it let's the brakes pulse and not lock up and yes my abs did work. Well off to parts store.
The brakes felt a little wierd on rest of the way home so when I got home Istarted looking my truck over then I took off the wheels and dicovered a 7 inch crack runnin around the drum. What the heck I thought abs wouldn't let damage like that occur because of how it let's the brakes pulse and not lock up and yes my abs did work. Well off to parts store.
If that's an original drum, I'd say it was a good run...lol, If it's newer, it may be defective. I have only seen that on drums that were turned down too far, and drumsthat had simply done their time.
Good luck with your ride.
Good luck with your ride.
I may recommend replacing the shoes and using standard brake shoes vs. the higher dollar ones that last longer.
Reason is, it could've damaged that, and those higher dollar long-life 'metallist' shoes also wear the rotor faster.
This is one place where I skip high performance parts (shoes), for the exact reason mentioned.
ABS'ing (pulsing) wears as fast if not faster than locking up, as the rotors still turn vs. being held in place (more friction).
Granted, the exerted pressure should be less, but then it's like hitting it with an air-tool: bang, bang, bang...
Some tips that helped me have better stopping power:
Increase following distance.
Reduce speed (slower is better).
'cauz He who hits the other in the rear is at fault.
Reason is, it could've damaged that, and those higher dollar long-life 'metallist' shoes also wear the rotor faster.
This is one place where I skip high performance parts (shoes), for the exact reason mentioned.
ABS'ing (pulsing) wears as fast if not faster than locking up, as the rotors still turn vs. being held in place (more friction).
Granted, the exerted pressure should be less, but then it's like hitting it with an air-tool: bang, bang, bang...
Some tips that helped me have better stopping power:
Increase following distance.
Reduce speed (slower is better).
'cauz He who hits the other in the rear is at fault.
Well just finished putting on new brake shoes and drum.
The drums were OEM and had 145K ON them.
The brake shoe's on the cracked drum were shattered and about a2 inch chunk was missing .
Well that's what I get for stopping someone who makes a turn onto a state route w/ out clear turning distance.
[sm=rant.gif]I should have T-boned her . Just flat out broad sided her that would have taught her a lesson .
The only good thing was my brake shoes were still under warranty at the parts place.
The drums were OEM and had 145K ON them.
The brake shoe's on the cracked drum were shattered and about a2 inch chunk was missing .
Well that's what I get for stopping someone who makes a turn onto a state route w/ out clear turning distance.
[sm=rant.gif]I should have T-boned her . Just flat out broad sided her that would have taught her a lesson .
The only good thing was my brake shoes were still under warranty at the parts place.
Our RWAL doesn't pulse the brakes ... it's a pressure dump system. Once the brake computer sees a too rapid drop in wheel speed, it activates the dump circuit and reduces pressure on the rear lines ... you can actually feel the pedal sink a bit and you're pretty much on the fronts by then.



