How yall doin'? Well, I am here for some more advice. I have a 96 ram with the 5.2 auto 4x4 slt blah blah blah. I have replace the oil sending unit/switch. I did this due to my oil light and pressure gauge dropping when I would drive and then say stop at a light or coast on an off ramp from the highway. As soon as the rpms are over around 750-1000 the pressure goes back up and the light goes out. I replaced the switch, cause it was the cheapest and I figured most unreliable part. Well, I am here so that obviously didn't work. I am not sure but I am figureing that the only other options would be the stuff under the engine. I am going to put a new pump in it. My question is this, the high flow pumps are only a couple bucks more than the oe, in theory I would want this so that the oil gets cycled faster. Now, is there anything bad about this? This is where I need some help. I appreciate all that is offered. and yall have a great day and weekend!
ryan

 

I have always used OE for the oil pump replacement but high flow pump should be much better.

Before I go on replacing oil pump, what I have done usually is put 1 quart of gunk cleaner and run the vehicle for 5 minutes with it. Drain all the oil and remove old oil filter. Put new oil filter, oil and that seems to restore the oil pressure and clear away the knocking noise.

 

Definitely clean the crankcase. Rather than using gunk for 5 minutes, another effective means is to drain a quart or so out of the pan and replace with a quart of kerosene and drive around for about 20 minutes. That will help de-sludge the everything as well. A hi-flo pump would be a good upgrade.

 

how many miles are on the truck....high miles?? a hi volume pump might not fix it... i have changed a many crank main bearings, and thrust, because of them wearing out and the clearance is out of spec....does the oil like come on after it warms up a bit??? it might be the problem since oil is thinner hot than cold. while you have the pan down, just take a main cap off and check the where....you shouldnt see and babbit(bronze) on the surface. if it's just alittle out then you can put a set of main bearings in it.

 

ok, so first I am going to use the quart of kerosene, to clean er up, then drain all, drop the filter and toss it, drop the pan, put the new pump in, take the cap off of something, I am going to have to read the book, and check and see if I need new bearings, (I hope not cause I haven't a clue what goes into that) and put it all back together. If anyone has any other ideas I appreciate it. Also the truck has 95000 miles on it. Oh, am I going to need anything other than a gasket, and some gasket goo, for when I drop the oil pan, any other parts that probably need to be replaced?
Thanks again for all the help

 

At 95k miles you are in the window for a potential oil pump failure. I have seen it on a few of the 318 and 360's in the past. All in or around 100k miles. The other thing I have seen on these trucks in that mileage range is the oil pump pick up being clogged which limits the amount of oil the pump is able to pull through.

In my case I dropped the pan to check mine when I noticed my oil pressure dipping below 40psi at hot idle. What I found was the pick up screen was pretty well clogged much like others I have worked on. After cleaning it thoroughly I installed a new Melling High Volume pump. Now I am right back at 40psi where I was before.

The original motor I had in my 97 was doing exactly what you are describing when I got it last summer. Which is why I got the truck for $1500 with 100k miles on it. I ended up pulling that motor because it was filled with sludge

What I do not know is the high volume pump also suppose to give you higher oil pressure? If so then with the new pump and a clean screen I would say that my mains are wearing to be holding 40psi. Just a thought.