I decided to start off with a 2" leveling kit to see where this will get the truck. I was suprised at how much work it was to install something on an IFS but overall very easy install with the right tools and know how.

You will need a floor jack, jack stands, assorted metric and SAE tools and a hammer.

Install time is 2.5 hours but that was with taking pictures and taking notes as I went.

Parts used were CCM's 2 inch front lift kit. Daystar and similar above strut mount kits will mount the same.

Stock SLT


First remove the front tires. Do both because you will need to access the other side while you do the opposite. Use two jackstands under the front carriage. In this first pic you will remove the steering connection by removinig the bolt with a deep socket and pounding out with a hammer.


Next remove the upper ball joint bolt with a deep well and use the jack under the axle to bring down gently as the ball joint gives way.


The tie rod removed (and busted from previous owner, need to fix this asap)


Bang on the spindle a few good times on the side NOT THE TOP. It will fall away easily.


Mostly complete, just need to unblolt the sway bar now.


Remove the sway bar link using two wrenches, if you dont you could damage it. The bolt will use a ratchet on top and down lower below the mount there is a hex fitting for a open ended wrench.


Remove the lower bolt from the strut. Hammer needed.


Strut removed.


Ready for install. This point only took 20 minutes!!!


Strut part number.


THIS IS IMPORTANT. Before you install the strut with the spacer mounted on top you must remove the bolt on the opposite side of the truck that is connected to the sway bar. If you dont you wont get the strut back in.


Reinstall strut and insert bolt. Hammer needed and alignment took a bit of time.


IMPORTANT. If you jack on the bottome of the control arm the leverage will be too much under the truck and it will lift the whole truck and not the assembly. You must use a 2x4 cut down to give leverage to the very end of the lower control arm. If you jack the assembly up by the brakes it will not allow you to line up the spindle and ball joint. THIS IS THE HARDEST PART!


Line up the spindle and bolt and get a few threads on there and then tighten it like this to make things a little easier.


Reinstall steering linkage, tie rod ends, this one needs replaced. This is a great time to discover what needs to be repaired. This was the only thing I found on my used truck that needs fixed.


While I was at it I replaced the bushings on the steering. Actually stiffened the front end up a bit on corners. NICE, cheap fix.


All bolted up and ready to go. Everything at this point is tight but not to spec. I will later tighten it all up with a torque wrench. You can also see the spacer installed here.


Driver side completed and no rubbing at full droop!


Passenger side completed and again no rubbing but there is about an eight of an inch between the upper arm and spring.


Torque lower strut mount to 70 ft lbs.


Torque upper ball joint to 70 ft lbs.


Torque Tie Rod ends to 70 ft lbs.


TORQUE THE UPPER STRUT MOUNT BOLTS TO 40 ft lbs.
TORQUE ALL OTHER BOLTS TO FACTORY SPEC (quarter turn past tight)
TORQUE THE WHEELS TO 95-100 ft lbs.

Tires weigh in at 51 and 52 lbs repectively. When upgrading the tires and wheels the weight matters because unsprung weight (tires, wheels, axles, etc) cause harsh rides and maintenance issues down the road.


Truck is done. Sorry it got dark over the time of the install and now she sits two inches higher up front. The rear will be done when I get the rest of parts and some other things I am working on.


Run the truck for 500 miles and come back and retighten to specs above.

PM me for corrections and questions.

Another WRITE UP BY DAKOLORADO.