PM me.

 

Well, We had words via Email all day long. I told them I'd like to call and talk man to man but I couldn't trust anything they said and had to have everything documented that we exchanged. Come end of the day I asked if they were saying my bumpers were done and ready to ship, yes or no. Seemed to be a lot of circle talking going on. I sent several links from the internet where people complained about their product and customer service as well. They said I was acting childish, and that I was a liar. MAN! I can't believe it! so I said if you can give me a tracking number I can verify with a shipping company by days end tomorrow, I'll call my credit card company and cancel the dispute. So, they did, and then MORE problems started. They told me the number they gave me would show that it was shipped if I omitted the dash before the last number. More BS lies. I never got that number to work, and called Fed Ex, and FINALLY they told me the second number they had given me was wrong, so there was no way it had worked for TAG. THAT out of the way, shipment confirmed, I let the payment go through. Today, Thu, the bumpers showed up at the terminal and I delivered them to the body shop that painted my truck. The paint looked as if they wrapped it up wet for shipment. They will both need to be repainted. The welds on the rear one were so bad the tail gate wouldn't clear them to open, and we had to slot the back bar bolt holes to drop the bumper down half an inch so the gate would open. The front bumper was crooked. The body shop guys had to modify the back bars just to get them to fit my frame and slide in. Then the R bumper end was under the fender a half inch, while the L end stuck out a good inch beyond the fender. That was really disturbing, but it was what I had suspected I'd get. There were no holes to run the wires for the rear bumper license plate light wires, they had to drill some. It took three techs from 2:00 til 5:00 with me helping to get the job done, not counting they need to be painted again. And I didn't get the free T shirt they were going to send either, like that matters. It was just one big SUCK of a deal all the way around. The front inner pans will need to be trimmed too, I'd thought the design would have been better. I don't know how these people ever got started in that business, much less survived.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by III%

I don't know how these people ever got started in thatbusiness, much less survived.

Well first off I would like to say sorry you had to go through all of that..that’s terrible….

Thank you, my bumper does look great, and yes I am going to put a Skidplate, just have to finish the entire top first than I’ll work on the skidplate.

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5 seconds in and I opened my hood and covered the headlights.. oops.. no damage to either.

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I just **** canned it black for now, but I have a lot more work to do on itbefore it’s done.

I still have the bottom skid plate, a sick custom license plate holder, andof course what bumper is good without a stinger bar, than all the lights and wiring…more fun to come..

After we get the bumper portion completed, and gaps fixed, a good paint job than I will be happy!

 

Here are some photos of a stinger I made for my jeep, I made it such that I could add it or remove it easily without struggling with the bumper, the mounting brackets are made to fit my 2" x 5" (.25 thick) rectangular tube bumper (also my fab).

NewStinger3.jpg

NewStinger2.jpg

Stinger-01.jpg

Here's a picture of a 2D drawing of the stinger - you're welcome to use whatever you want from it if it helps in building your own.

Stinger-02.jpg

Not sure what you have as reinforcement structure on your bumper, but with a stinger & potentially a winch, you'll need some solid material that ties directly onto the frame. If you plan to use angle or plate, I'd suggest .25" and if you use rectangular tube, you can get away with 3/16. I like the look of your bumper, as a suggestion to smooth of all the seams, I would recommend running a bead of weld over all of them and then use a flapper disk on your angle grinder to clean it all off (you might need a die grinder with a carbide burr for any inside angles that you need to smooth, but careful use of a fresh flapper disk will also do the inside angles, you just need to be careful not to over do it or you'll see the dips that these disks can make real quick). I like 80 grit for the rough pass and 120 will give the steel almost a buffed look and with some "thick" primer to fill in any sanding scratches, you'll end up with a smokin' bumper.

 

Wow.. Thats looks awesome! I will take it into consideration. Im not that good but I'll try. Thank You for the great advice and knowledge!


stacks.jpg

3" Leveling kit- 265/75R16 BFG Rugged Terrains- Custom Short Ram Intake- Flowmaster 40 w/ custom 3" stacks- Black housing headlights 6k HID- Custom HarleyDavidson Shifter

 

I waited too long before I tried fitting mine to do anything about it ... but I would contact them again telling them the issues and the additional cost and that you will expect compensation for the work (have the shop and techs write something up) and inform them that you will be reporting them to the B.B.B. and that you can still take up claim with your credit card company .. all you have to do is show proof that what you got was not what you ordered ... and that is the truth ...


Alfons: That brush bar looks sweet and I like how you make it easily removable

PYROFOSSIL: I love seeing how you are coming along with the bumper ... gonna look great when you are done

 

If you want to make a "stinger", I'd recommend using DOM tubing (I used 2" DOM). It's strong, light, and bends well with the proper tube bender (not a pipe bender). Any muffler shop that has the capability of making smooth bends in their tubes will have the tube bender and dies to make this, but there are quite a few shops that have the cheaper "crinkle bend" machines that will only destroy DOM, although it may also destroy the cheap bender. If you choose to go with the more inexpensive approach of using pipe (like schedule 80 pipe), you can use a cheap hydraulic pipe bender but you won't get the small radius bends and other clean lines that you will with DOM. The pipe itself & the weld strengths won't be the same either.

If you decide to weld it yourself, there's no such thing as over-clamping your work to keep it straight during the welding process. Remember that the the work will warp (upwards on both sides of the weld) without adequate clamping to keep it straight/flat.

 

It's looking good so far, keep up the good work.

 

I know, it is taking me for ever to finish this bumper. I have made some progress! Not exactly how I originally planned but this will work. I still have room in the middle to add a winch later. This is where I'm at now.
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IMG-20130622-01254_zps8587d989.jpg

stacks.jpg

3" Leveling kit- Rancho's All around- 265/75R16 BFG Rugged Terrains- Custom Short Ram Intake- Straight piped exhaust w/ custom 3" stacks- Black housing headlights 6k HID- Custom HarleyDavidson Shifter

 

Those look sick as hell guys! I'm jealous! What kind of welding set up are you using? In that one pic it looked like a stick welder.