Well I was gonna save this for a write up but I just want to throw this out there. Now I haven't done this for the Dakota yet but once I run into some extra spending money that won't interfere with Xmas I'll let you know how it goes(that is unless someone beats me to the punch, but that's the point of this post is to share what I've been planning). I know everybody has been aiming to do an electric fan swap to relieve some extra HP and fuel economy. So...many of us have been eyeballing that Flexalite or Black Magic fan. But that can put a hole in a pocket quick and needs a fat wallet. Some don't know where to start.

Well there's a cheaper option out there thats been used on so many other vehicles-one I've planned for my jeep. So spit it, right. It's commonly known as a Ford Taurus fan found in mid 90's on 3.8L V6's. But actually it can be found in about any Ford 3.8L in mid 90's. Some people use the Lincoln Mark VIII fan. You can find either fan for about $25 at any picnpull junkyard.

Here's a pic of it from another forum:




Now the fan you want to look for has three wires: blue wire-high setting, black/orange-low setting, and black-ground.
The fan has been proven on many well built V8's and sure to hold for our Dakota's. Now this fan is a puller estimated around 2000cfm(not clear). Most claim low setting is more than sufficient. If you look at the pick you can tell that there is a shroud molded to the Taurus fan. Now by memory this thing is approximately 22"x18" and like 5-6" deep. Fortunately you can shave off a few inches if more depth is needed. I just measured our radiator today and this should be a perfect fit and cover the entire radiator so we can toss our old shroud.

Here's what it looks like mounted to a radiator (not a Dakota radiator) but if you notice this think almost looks stock mounted.



Now the downside to this. This sucker takes about 100 amps to start and uses like 33 amps continuous when running. Now in a previous post of mine I asked how much can our alternator put out and I was told 135 amps. Now I don't know how much amps the Dakota currently uses or needs. But what does this mean if we stick this thing in there and our alternator can't handle it: well if A/C, lights, and stereo is on you could see your lights dim when the fan cuts on; or the alternator may not have enough umf to charge the battery. So can our Dakota alternator handle this?...I don't know maybe someone here can tell us or by trial and error. If it can't handle it how do we fix this-upgrade the alternator for more amps. Now if we need this then that takes us back out of cheap.

Next we move on to wiring. There are tons of ways to wire this sucker up. A common setup is an Imperial Controller (PN: 3647)-$36, Imperial Mount Kit (PN: 226201)-$6, and Bosch 150amp Relay (PN: 0 332 002 156)-$30.
If you take this route you end up spending about $97 total for a electric fan swap.

Where I'm headed in wiring is a bit more expensive but takes a lot of guess work out and should look cleaner. I plan on using SPAL's Automatic Programmable Fan controller for $90. It'll run at 100% power for a few sec to start the fan then run at 50% on first programmed temp setting (ie: 185*) and 100% if needed on second temp setting (ie: 200*). If you hook it up to A/C as well which I'm sure most will it will default to 100%



Here's the wiring diagram for the setup I plan to use



There's one more controller I'm researching into by Dakota Digital



I don't know much about this one yet but the SPAL unit is weatherproof.

I think there's a soft start unit out there that'll help eliviate a 100amp draw on each fan start. That would prove useful as well since this sucker needs so much power each time it starts.

Well I hope everyone finds this useful. If anyone gets to using this fan before me post up on what you did and if you like it.

 

Here's a few links for you:
http://etxiow.accpaconline.com/itemd...item=FAN%2DPWM
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...d=43/prd43.htm
http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/...rkVIII_Fan.htm

 

Frenchy is running that fan on his truck, he has it wired up to run on low all the time and a switch for high so he would only have that 100amp draw at startup though.

 

So is it confirmed that our alternator can't handle the full 100amp start up?

 

No I wouldn't say that, sorry didn't mean to come across that way. He wired it like that for ease of install I think. I was just saying that doesn't necessarily prove the startup either way since his fan starts running when he starts the engine and never shuts off till the truck does. He's never mentioned any problems with it.

 

Like Altair said, I think French still has his on (https://dodgeforum.com/m_852659/tm.htm) similiar setup to what you are talking about, but much simpler wiring...I think one of the other guys did this as well but removed it later...

I think it is a great idea and if you have a much cleaner/pratical way to hook it up, post it on up (with good instructions of course!)

 

Actually, now that I think about it, even on low he should run into the 100amp startup even if it is once.

Dak in Black, I don't how Frenchy's wiring seems easier--cheaper yes. But the SPAL unit comes with all the wires you'll need for any setup. The only thing that may be missing is a fuse(not sure). And it almost makes it seem factory by only cutting on when needed automatically and operating at 100% when A/C is on. So Spal should be easier and practical. But we'll see how it goes I guess

 

Well I have the flex-a-lite fan. More expensive than your setup yes but I also have a warranty and it was much easier to set up. Believe me I don't have a lot of money to throw around but I would rather spend the 300 bucks on something that I know will work, is easy to install and have a warranty in case something breaks. Thats my view. Good luck with your setup.

 

i used a 185 degree switch(relay) that threaded into the waterjacket on the top radiator gooseneck! 5 bucks done deal