I wrote an email to trailmaster trying to find out why they advertise a 2" lift when most of us are getting only 1.5"

If anyone thinks they know why this is happening, please let me know. I know that a member on here added an additional spacer to his kit, that he main, and it didnt increase the lift over 1.5" either, so I am thinking SOMTHING is restriciting it, and I'd really like to find out so I can make an adjustment to get the full 2" out of the kit, since I am using it for a full 2" lift and not to level the front.

There is a sway bar up front right? Could that make a problem? I tried jacking up the front end a few inches, to see the flex in all components, and nothing seemed to restrict the lift.

What could be happening? I'd hate to drop the rear down to a smaller block.

 

I don't know but I'm having a bit of a problem getting anyone to compress the spring far enough to put the spacer in..

 

Honestly, with all the crappy reviews of the Trailmaster Ive read, Im thinking when the time comes Ill go with a CCM Offroad kit, and do a .5" block in the rear if necessary.

 

One thing to watch out for in those reviews is how it was installed. The Trailmaster kit can be installed two different ways, one is definitely better (inside the strut). Personally I have zero complaints about mine, it's been great.

 

ok went to midas and they did the left side compress , went home and got it back in..

the upper a-arm is a real stinker to work with (hooking the upper balljoint stud into the knuckle and keeping it from turning while tightening the nut) once you have the shock back in.

i'll get the other strut/spring out on friday I think.

 

If I remember right there is a spot you can stick a wrench on there to prevent the stud from turning, it's what I had to do when I took mine apart.

 

I didn't see one. you are talking about the balljoint stud into the upper steering knuckle from the upper A-arm right? I founda place for a wrenchhowever on the stabilizer bar link on the lower a-arm.

That upper bolt on the stabilizer link was rusted pretty heavy (06 model) and looked like it would have snapped instead of loosening. I went for the bolt on the lower a-arm instead. much easier.

 

If Im' remembering correctly the top of the stud above the threads is shaped like a square. You can slip a wrench on that while you tighten the nut.