thinking about Nitrous
Right. I'm not a nitrous expert, I've never ran nitrous before, but from what I've read, a wet system is generally better because it's a little more efficient and creates more horsepower vs. a dry system. The downside to that is, with a wet system, your mixing fuel and the nitrous gas directly into your intake manifold as opposed to just nitrous gas with a dry system. With a dry system, you would get your fuel from the injectors.
If you run a wet system and your intake isn't strong enough, you have the potential to blow up the intake because of a backfire. Especially since ours are plastic. (Then again, if you have a nitrous backfire, even if you have a stainless steel intake manifold or whatever else, somethings still gonna blow up)
You should be alright though, the intake manifold on my last car was plastic as well, and there were plenty of people running 75 shots through it with no problems. Just be responible and have fun!
dont over do it. take a look at you tube or yahoo videos of nitrous exsplosens they are pretty funny.if you stay with in the trucks paramiters like me, you will be safe. the zex kit comes complete with the matching jets so there is no guessing and the paper work for the proper jets is all filled out.
As long as you are running a wet shot, a 75 shot should be fine (tuning wise).
Just keep in mind that nitrous is a "power-adder" and increases cylinder pressure significantly. As mentioned above, your life span on piston rings and pistons will decrease. If abused, you will see excessive ring gap and collapsed piston skirts (to the point where your piston to cylinder wall clearance is out of tolerance).
Just keep in mind that nitrous is a "power-adder" and increases cylinder pressure significantly. As mentioned above, your life span on piston rings and pistons will decrease. If abused, you will see excessive ring gap and collapsed piston skirts (to the point where your piston to cylinder wall clearance is out of tolerance).
but
the cylinder pressures should hold withing a stable value and not cause harm. running an aggressive tune can cause excessive wear and lead to trouble, but if done right everything will be fine.
idk how your intake would go boom..because the nitrous is going in through the intake its not exploding or combusting in the intake itself thats not occuring until a while later. but i mean nitrous either way is doing harm to your motor in the long run no matter how little or large amount of nitrous you use. you use a little bit here and there its gonna do damage to the piston rings and pistons themselves as i've stated above before but it'll take a lot longer to show depending on how often you use the NITRO power. honestly our motors are strong but not exactly to the point where they can hold nitrous safely for a long while. but yeah thats my 2 cents.
Right. I'm not a nitrous expert, I've never ran nitrous before, but from what I've read, a wet system is generally better because it's a little more efficient and creates more horsepower vs. a dry system. The downside to that is, with a wet system, your mixing fuel and the nitrous gas directly into your intake manifold as opposed to just nitrous gas with a dry system. With a dry system, you would get your fuel from the injectors.
If you run a wet system and your intake isn't strong enough, you have the potential to blow up the intake because of a backfire. Especially since ours are plastic. (Then again, if you have a nitrous backfire, even if you have a stainless steel intake manifold or whatever else, somethings still gonna blow up)
You should be alright though, the intake manifold on my last car was plastic as well, and there were plenty of people running 75 shots through it with no problems. Just be responible and have fun!
If you run a wet system and your intake isn't strong enough, you have the potential to blow up the intake because of a backfire. Especially since ours are plastic. (Then again, if you have a nitrous backfire, even if you have a stainless steel intake manifold or whatever else, somethings still gonna blow up)
You should be alright though, the intake manifold on my last car was plastic as well, and there were plenty of people running 75 shots through it with no problems. Just be responible and have fun!
when running nitrous all supporting mods should be done and no corners cut. just like boost, the tune and supporting mods are everything. when running a hard shot or tune, you have to watch exactly how the nitrous pours on. a dry shot lessens the risk of nitrous backfire because of the absence of fuel in the mixture. the nitrous is fed at atmospheric pressure, so this is where air velocity plays a factor.
nitrous backfires are caused by: spray too low rpm's (low ari velocity), too much timing, too low octane, low bottle pressure, incorrect jetting, fuel puddling (fuel drop out) etc.
to help with less cylinder pressure, keep the spray for the higher rpm's. the lower rpm's creat the most cylinder pressures since the air evacuation is a little slower.
i have ran nitrous on my mustang for 3 years, ran 125 for a while, went to a 150, and now going to a 200. its a stock long block car, plastic intake manifold as well. i have beat the living **** out of this car for 5 years now, i have broke just about everything but the motor. i have done nitrous on several cars, i have my own filling station since me and a few friends go thru so much nitous. dont be scared of it, like stated above, just be responsible and have fun with it.
Last edited by s2ks; Jan 25, 2009 at 08:09 AM.
Agreed, don't be scared of it...but respect it. Like you, I have been running 25psi out of a 57trim on my car for almost 5 years on an engine that I built. As with any engone component considerations, "engine life" suggests the proper combination and tune. Most people freak out when I tell them that I am running 25psi on 91 octane **** water...my response to the un-affiliated race car builders is "its all in the tune, relatively".
As far as nitrous goes, considerations in head gaskets, cylinder head bolts and torque, piston configuration, tolerances (ring gap, piston to wall clearance, piston to head clearance, etc.) and other factors are all to be considered if shooting for the longest engine life...or at least, the opposite of failure.



