Installin New Struts and TM kit
So I've gotten the struts out; tried to disassemble the struts; couldn't because of the rusty bolt. Decided to have a shop change out the struts and stick the TM kit in. Get home, stick the strut in there and then find out it lines up for $[]!+. Both are about 30-35degrees off. Now, the shop marked the top pieces so they'll line back up but they don't. My guess is Monroe welded the bottom spring bucket them 30degrees off. Anyone else install their own struts to find the same thing?
I tried disassembling them again but there's way too much tension on the nut for it to loosen still. And dammit if I didn't shear the hex nipple at the end tryin to get the fricken thing back apart. Hopefully, the shop will redo it for me for free and they can do it without the end piece...it'll just be a B to get off a few rusty miles later.
I tried disassembling them again but there's way too much tension on the nut for it to loosen still. And dammit if I didn't shear the hex nipple at the end tryin to get the fricken thing back apart. Hopefully, the shop will redo it for me for free and they can do it without the end piece...it'll just be a B to get off a few rusty miles later.
Did you put them back on the correct sides? Wasn't there a thread about needing to rotate something when installing the spacers??? I could be mistaken. I can't believe there is a manufacturing defect, but anythings possible.
I had them ordered through Advanced Auto Parts. I didn't know there was an entire assembly.
I made some cardboard templates of the bolt pattern with a line representing the current center line for the bottom shock bolt. Rather than screwin around twisting the whole assembly around to see if any otter rotation will work. But to answer the ?...No swapping sides doesn't work . It's off the same degree it was on the other side.
I made some cardboard templates of the bolt pattern with a line representing the current center line for the bottom shock bolt. Rather than screwin around twisting the whole assembly around to see if any otter rotation will work. But to answer the ?...No swapping sides doesn't work . It's off the same degree it was on the other side.
The top plate that has the 3 bolts on it can be bolted down any old way (i think). So what your saying is that the top bolts no longer line up when you try to slide it up into the perch?
They messed up, they need to relieve the spring tension again, and rotate that top plate until the bolts are in the correct spot.
How the hell did they mess that up.......
They messed up, they need to relieve the spring tension again, and rotate that top plate until the bolts are in the correct spot.
How the hell did they mess that up.......
Well, I got the struts on. Found out you don't have to disassemble the struts. Apparently, it is ok to turn the whole assembly by bolting the top up and using a bar in the bottom strut holes. Though when it turns it'll suddenly jump a 1/4 turn and make a loud ping to startle you. Hopefully, I won't never need it out again; I followed TM's instructions to use the supplied locktite on every bolt unless listed. It's permanent red...
Shouldn't have to retighten. I torque marked all my bolts too just to make sure nothing moves anyways. Did brake pads too since I was down there. I'll be getting new tires shortly now as I held off as long as I could. So I'll have the alignment done then. I know we all like pics so here's one of the inner fender. I'll post another of the whole truck later...with new tires and a cleaning probably.
Shouldn't have to retighten. I torque marked all my bolts too just to make sure nothing moves anyways. Did brake pads too since I was down there. I'll be getting new tires shortly now as I held off as long as I could. So I'll have the alignment done then. I know we all like pics so here's one of the inner fender. I'll post another of the whole truck later...with new tires and a cleaning probably.


