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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 07:46 AM
  #11  
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I would think it would be a bolt on they look the same by the same manufacture. Check to see if the EMC needs to be reprogrammed or whatever to see the alt values.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 02:39 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by graythang
At 136 amps should be plenty to handle the load. Hell many houses still have 150 amp services and that runs AC or electric heat, lights, cooking everything all at once. You could buy the optional Caravan 160 amp alt. but I don't know if the puter may need to be programmed for it. I remember cars/truck in the 70/80 with alt maxed at 100 amp but most where around 60 amp and we ran light bars with four 100 watt lamps plus 130 watt lamps in the GLASS head lights (Illegal) but never had a power problem.
I agree, I think the stock one is more than adequate. Like I said, you can get the proper tools and know for a fact what you're drawing. I may even be able to do it for you on my own truck to give you a baseline on all of the stock usage, and then you can do the calculations on the lighting you've added if you don't have a meter/clamp. In my opinion you're wasting your money jumping the gun and just replacing it without first knowing you really need to or not. It may just be overkill. But hey, it's your money so if you need to upgrade it to feel comfortable, then go for it.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 01:36 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by thecause17
I agree, I think the stock one is more than adequate. Like I said, you can get the proper tools and know for a fact what you're drawing. I may even be able to do it for you on my own truck to give you a baseline on all of the stock usage, and then you can do the calculations on the lighting you've added if you don't have a meter/clamp. In my opinion you're wasting your money jumping the gun and just replacing it without first knowing you really need to or not. It may just be overkill. But hey, it's your money so if you need to upgrade it to feel comfortable, then go for it.
i wasnt looking to upgrade right away but its comforting to know that if the stock one goes then i can get a bigger one instead of looking at the same problem down th road.I do intend on putting a couple more on but if you could lemme know what every thing is pulling stock then that would be awesome dude and much appreciated
 
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 01:54 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by canadian dakota
I do intend on putting a couple more on but if you could lemme know what every thing is pulling stock then that would be awesome dude and much appreciated
I'll see what I can do, I have a meter here, but I'll have to borrow a clamp from work, if I have a DC capable one available, as I mostly play with 1000+ amps of AC current.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 04:19 AM
  #15  
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look ^ missing link audio. i am running a stock alt & a very large audio systdm and i use it it allows more current flow from the factory alt
 
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 11:05 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Lovinmydodge
look ^ missing link audio. i am running a stock alt & a very large audio systdm and i use it it allows more current flow from the factory alt
what's your idea of "a very large audio system..."
 
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 03:25 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Lovinmydodge
look ^ missing link audio. i am running a stock alt & a very large audio systdm and i use it it allows more current flow from the factory alt
Looking at their site that product is oriented towards allowing aftermarket higher capacity alternators to work to their full potential. Keep in mind the stock alt was designed to provide up to a certain amount of current, hopefully you are not pulling so much as to damage it since it sounds like you've removed the safety limits.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 01:28 AM
  #18  
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actually the units are 4 both factory or aftermarket. as for the system i was running a RE Audio off a DDZ1 amp. basicly i ran 3k rms daily & 5k rms for spl burps. b4 that i was running audiobah immortal 15's (2) and 2x a2x600HQ amps so 4800 rms and 9600 peak prior. my alt barely gets warm when im running the system. even @ 5k rms with 3 batterys i hold a 12.9 Volt system @ idle. I wouldn't put something like that in my truck if it didn't work & work well. If a little more juice will fix or help ur setup then this is ur best bet. when ur battery is full the unit shuts off and you will see factory voltage etc but under draw the unit runs voltage ^ to around 14.6 to 15 volts. also i suggest doin a BIG 3 upgrade . ( charging stud to+ term on battery, wire from batt's - term 2 chassis & engine to chassis ) Just doing some 4 or 0 awg wire on the big 3 helped alot!
 
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 11:44 AM
  #19  
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yes big three was my main help...
 
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 11:19 PM
  #20  
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Hey I wanted to let you know I did bring home a clamp, but I've been busy the last couple days. I should be able to look at this tomorrow. I'll let you know what I come up with.
 
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