I had a caliper fail recently on the driver's side.
The bottom piston would not move. I managed to get it unsiezed but upon testing it, it failed again. It didn't get to experience the cherry red rotor but it was so hot after only 2 miles of travel, I had to wear think leather gloves to work on it.

I bought a new caliper at Advance Auto parts. Tax and all it was $60.
And it was in stock!

Looked like the rubber boot or seal around the piston was compromised somehow and maybe moisture got to the piston. It doesn't take much.

 

Ok, my prostate is feeling the warm carress from Pep Boys. Why the hell is it $128 with a $60 core charge and still two pot? Advanced/AutoZone/Napa are all in the $70 range with the same $60 core.

Eric,
The Napa dude said he doesn't have pics but all of their parts are OEM. Not upgrades. The website only shows 2 pot calipers. He also siad they are indepently owned so you may have gotten some super duper aftermarket job. United is the brand he had.

 

Do they list what percentage of water absorption they consider "Wet"? Just listing a wet boiling point is awfully vague.

If you ever find those tires you've been asking Tire Rack for let me know. I'll buy whatever is left after you're done.

 

Too late now. Napa 2 pots are on. As are teh dimpled/slotted rotors. Haven't done anything more than the break in. After that it said to take it easy for 100 miles. Did the hundred miles already but now it's raining.

Just from the break in tho they are much better than stock.

 

Just had my right caliper replaced due to a similar incident. It happened suddenly while driving on the highway. Hit the brakes at the off ramp, and the truck pulled to the right. Smelled the burnt brakes when I stopped later. I've never had calipers seized up on me so suddenly. The truck is an '07 with only 30k on it. Dealer played stupid when I asked about this as a known issue, as did the mechanic. I also asked if the other side should be replaced, or the fluid flushed but was told,"no, not at this time". I paid $440 out the door for a new caliper and pads. No new disk, not even a turn of the old. This appears to me to be a sudden failure and not one I want to encounter on a long haul somewhere. If it's the boot failing, then letting in crud, or the piston itself, perhaps more information should be gathered to make this a "known issue" at the very least!

 

Holy crap...a seized caliper at 30k is not covered under warrenty?

 

It would be a good idea to replace the flex line as well. I have seen them cause the caliper not to release at times too. They brake down inside and kind of seperate. The seperated pieces can act as a check valve at times causing an intermitting locked caliper.

 

On my 05 the front brakes started seizing before I even had 15K on it. I feel the problem started with the rotors warping, which caused the calipers to eventually fail. At less than 25K I replaced the rotors, brake pads and calipers for just over $400.00. I installed drilled and slotted high performance rotors from http://www.brakeperformance.com, and I got the calipers from NAPA. I now have 33K on the truck and haven't had a problem since replacing everything.

Tom