lol haha yup!

 

No go! I must of just warmed it up enough yesterday. Did the same thing this morning. Im out of ideas but was suggested to check coil packs? Anyone have anymore ideas?

 

I don't know, but was suggesting it because my old car did close to the same thing to me, got to the point that it would not idle at all, but I could start it with my foot on the pedal. Changed the IAC, everything was back to normal. The whole resetting the battery with yours seems to point to something else though.

 

depending on the year and miles, the battery could be on its way out, these trucks work of the computer, so if the battery is not being charged properly it might not have the juice to keep it running, check all the connections around the battery for corosion or loose connections

 

i thought that resetting the battery did it but it probably was because i warmed it up before i unhooked the battery ... its a new battery feb 2010 ... someone said alt doesnt keep up sometimes and wont let the truck idle? does that make any sense?

 

idk...if alternator is bad your truck wont stay charged at all no matter what the temperature is! i mean cause really while driving down the road you would notice after a while your battery level going down and things cutting off or not working!

 

I am leaning toward the IAC on this one. If you can't afford to replace it at this time, at least have a look at it, and try cleaning it. Use a MAP sensor cleaning spray on it though, not Throttle body or carb cleaner. Be very careful with it though, it's easily broken. My guess is that it's gunked up and when cold, it doesn't have the closed loop computer settings to keep the engine running.

 

I miss my old dumb cars!!!

 

A fuel injected engine should never need the throttle to be opened to start. If it does then it's in need of one thing; oxygen. There is either too much fuel, or not enough air to create the proper 14.7:1 ratio for combustion. A good scan tool would probably make short order of this. If the TPS wasn't within it's normal operating range, or the IAC was at the extreme open position, or the fuel trim levels were way off, the data stream would show you real time what's going on. Perhaps even the air temperature sensor is the culprit. I worked on a car that had starting problems from the beginning. The second owner had mechanics replace different switches and sensors to no avail. I noticed that the temperature sensor was reading normal, but through the computer it was out of bounds for a cold start. He was able to get the ECM replaced cheap, problem solved.