20 hour drive for a truck that I'm not 100% on.
20 hour drive for a truck that I'm not 100% on.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/car-tru...dakota-ct.html
I talked to this guy a little. And the truck sounds solid mechanically. But the body/paint doesn't seem to be in as good condition as I want. Along with some cigarette burns inside. It's under my budget so maybe could take out a few extra grand on the loan to try and fix these things. I would definitely change some mods but I like most of what he has done with the truck.
What's your guys opinion on price and would you buy if were in my shoes?
Thanks.
I talked to this guy a little. And the truck sounds solid mechanically. But the body/paint doesn't seem to be in as good condition as I want. Along with some cigarette burns inside. It's under my budget so maybe could take out a few extra grand on the loan to try and fix these things. I would definitely change some mods but I like most of what he has done with the truck.
What's your guys opinion on price and would you buy if were in my shoes?
Thanks.
Record Breaker
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,084
Likes: 5
From: Las Vegas
well this is my opinion, and i fix cars and trucks for a living so it may vary from someone elses.
but when ive always shopped for a car or truck. the body was the last on my priority list (as far as paint and trim, NOT straightness or rust. THOSE are important)
BUT when i buy vehicles, the main thing i look at is mechanicals. how much will a part cost ME (parts, not labor) to fix something. Since paint jobs are cheap and dent repair is part of a paint job, that was always no problem for me.
But if major components dont need to be replaced (ie. trans, heads, any major ecm, pcm, or similar computers.) than i feel more comfortable about buying it.
stupid little things like needs brakes or tires soon. etc. i usually hassle the seller and make it sound like a big deal to drop the price. but in reality (if your mechanically inclined) things like brakes are easy ways to drop the price because its cheaper for you to do them yourself once you buy the truck.
but when ive always shopped for a car or truck. the body was the last on my priority list (as far as paint and trim, NOT straightness or rust. THOSE are important)
BUT when i buy vehicles, the main thing i look at is mechanicals. how much will a part cost ME (parts, not labor) to fix something. Since paint jobs are cheap and dent repair is part of a paint job, that was always no problem for me.
But if major components dont need to be replaced (ie. trans, heads, any major ecm, pcm, or similar computers.) than i feel more comfortable about buying it.
stupid little things like needs brakes or tires soon. etc. i usually hassle the seller and make it sound like a big deal to drop the price. but in reality (if your mechanically inclined) things like brakes are easy ways to drop the price because its cheaper for you to do them yourself once you buy the truck.
Guest
Posts: n/a
thats a long way to go, but if your in love with it, then I guess its worth it. I would find out how the front end is holding up, and if proper maintenance has been done. Diff changes/ tans fluid/ that type of stuff.
Also, asking for a compression test before flying out to get the thing, is the least of what I would ask for. if the compression isnt close (within 5-10%) on all the cylinders, I would seriously consider passing on this truck and continuing your search.
Also, asking for a compression test before flying out to get the thing, is the least of what I would ask for. if the compression isnt close (within 5-10%) on all the cylinders, I would seriously consider passing on this truck and continuing your search.
Champion
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,739
Likes: 8
From: ct.
truck looks straight, also if those 20 inch rims come with it, those are sweet too. I live in ct also, this winter was bad, really bad. if you go, please check the under carraige for rust and broken frt end parts.
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Professional
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Central Ohio
AutoTrader.com is an excellent resource. Regardless of styling, the '08+ V8 is a huge step up in power. The very first time you have a heavy load, (and trust me you will) you'll kick yourself in the butt for not getting a 300+ HP truck. Trucks are like getting a bigger house: you think you can never fill it. Six months later you're looking at a U-Store It unit. I found my 2010 BigHorn with less than 3K miles through AutoTrader, last month. I purchased it from a major new car dealer in Pensacola, FL, for 19K. GL with your search.
Last edited by TomZ; May 9, 2011 at 01:56 PM.
nice buy
Guest
Posts: n/a
I wouldn't buy an 08+ 4.7
I have driven 4 of them now. and not one of them felt like it had more torque than my truck. and I'm running a muffler delete.
I havent had any issues pulling my car or friends cars on a car hauler from Birch run to my place, and thats a 3 hour trip one way with a lot of hills. Last summers boating season was also no problem. IMO, if your pulling anything heavier than what I pull around, you need a full size truck.
I have driven 4 of them now. and not one of them felt like it had more torque than my truck. and I'm running a muffler delete.
I havent had any issues pulling my car or friends cars on a car hauler from Birch run to my place, and thats a 3 hour trip one way with a lot of hills. Last summers boating season was also no problem. IMO, if your pulling anything heavier than what I pull around, you need a full size truck.