anytime you would move the frame of the truck upwards and keep the spindle where its at. no matter if its hockey pucks, in spring, top spring, coilover swap. The arms still do the same thing.

 

even though the length of the strut wont change with the TM kit like it would with the top-strut kit?

 

Yes the length of the strut has nothing to do with the upper arm angling more downwards and being closer to the coil

 

Your not entirely correct, your forgetting one important detail. The A-arm won't contact when the TM puck is a preloader.

When you use the TM kit as a spring pre-loader, the entire strut assembly is in a more extended position (as if you put a stronger spring in....thats all the puck does anyway), but never gets longer then it normally would, because the strut itself stops the travel. This means the suspensions total travel will not be any greater then it would be stock. So the upper a-arm's possible angles don't change, but only where is rests, which is now as if the suspension was traveling 2" even though its at resting position. Only the static starting position of the strut's travel changes. It's like putting the front end on its "tip toes" and aligning it. It uses up some travel, but never travels more then it normally would. With the TM kit installed this way, the A-arm won't contact. You can create this effect "*******ly" by jacking up the front end with a jack 2". Thats where the TM kit puts your suspension while driving down the road. You lost that much "Travel". When you jack the truck up all the way off the ground, the a-arms dont contact the spring, just as they wouldn't with this style kit, because the strut itself limits the travel.


If you install it the other way, or use any other leveling kit that mounts outside the strut, THEN the a-arm will contact at full travel. This is because the strut will still extended to its maximum length, but the leveling kit has lowered the strut in its frame mount, so this puts the strut however many inches out of place, and then it is still allowed to fully extend. The a-arm makes contact.

TM installed as a preloader = a-arm wont contact, suspension cannot travel farther then stock, but travel is "Eaten" to create lift.

All other kits = places strut lower in frame mount, when strut extends fully, pushes front end 2" farther then it could normally travel, a-arm contacts spring.

Both kits suck, but at least the TM won't over extend inner tie rod ends, Cv joints and control arms.

The TM preloader won't over extend the front end though, it can only eat up the travel of the strut by loading the spring.

 

the TM kit lifts the front end of the truck up right? preloading a spring for a set weight on a truck lifts the truck up and makes it stiffer. it also allows the shock to top out sooner. just as a bad as the upper arm coming into contact with the coil.

unless the truck stays at right height. the upper arm will be closer to the coil than factory. may not come into contact with the TM kit but then your topping out your shocks. either way. these trucks need a new design upfront lol.

 

Yeah your exactly right.

Both kits aren't too great. The Tm will keep the strut limiting the front end, but it does a number on the strut itself. Also, who wants to lose suspension travel on the "trail" or "offroad".

Ive installed both types of kits. The kits do a number on the inner tie rods and steering rack on this vehicle. IMO, its just a bad idea in the long run.

I personally vote against using a leveling kit, although many will disagree with me.

 

I say to the OP, if you simply must lift it somehow, just go with the 3" body lift kit and some good ATs, maybe plus sizing slightly for more axle clearance and call it done.

I wouldn't toy with the leveling kits.

 

where are u guys buying your daystar kits???

 

not my tie rods or rack!

 

i was looking into the TM kit as a replacement for the top mount, just askin for some opinions