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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 10:52 AM
  #11  
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It would be interesting to see a log of 0-60 runs (say 5 runs at operating temp) both before and after this injector swap.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 02:50 PM
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Default Best "top-end" power adder?

What would be the best top end power adder? It seems like at the end of the 1/4 the truck shifts into last gear, almost like if it would stay in the gear it was in it would be better. I have already done e fan, CAI, colder plugs, thermostat, tuning, exhaust, and racing tires.

I did find someone local who tunes SCT with a dyno that I might check out this winter, hopefully, he can help. Sean (Hemifever) I guess, can only do so much with "canned" tunes, without actually having the truck.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 03:00 PM
  #13  
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gears dude. with only the v6 you limit your options b.c cams are "easier" to find (never heard of a cam upgrade for a v6)
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by thunder98110
gears dude.
I would definitely invest in some gears. It makes the truck so much more fun to drive.....unless you're driving down the highway @ 70 mph with a loud exhaust, then it gets annoying lol.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 07:16 PM
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Nos..
 
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 02:15 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by ozone45212
Yea, I think I have reduced weight as far as I will go with my daily driver. No tailgate, no spare, no reese hitch. With the mods I have done, I am where if the truck looses more weight, or picks up power, I will have traction issues.
Weight reduction/redistribution will help more than adding inexpensive power here. Traction is affected by weight. The less mass to push, the better the contact patch works for you. The more evenly weight is distributed, the better your traction. Look into lighter rims and tires, fiberglass hood, battery relocation, e-fan, etc. These are all very doable with a daily driver. Sway delete is another weight saving option, as well as lighter seats. Manual tranny weighs quite a bit less than auto. Headders weigh less than exhaust manifolds. Swap heavy rear bumper with a rollpan, front bumper with fascia. Rule of thumb is every 100lbs= a tenth in the quarter. But target weight savings up front. The more weight you shed out back, the more traction becomes an issue. You can shed a whole bunch of weight by removing the bed, but then you're just a rolling smoke show if you don't shed the same amount of weight up front.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2011 | 11:06 PM
  #17  
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For traction issues, suspension plays a great role in addition to weight distribution/removal. Two other HUGE characteristics are tire choice and rear end configuration. Does your rear end have an LSD? What tires are you running? What tire pressure is in the rears when you are at the track? What suspension modifications have been done?
 
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 12:37 AM
  #18  
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Stock suspension, stock rear end. Running 27" Mickey Thompson ST radials. 20-22psi.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 08:14 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ozone45212
Stock suspension, stock rear end. Running 27" Mickey Thompson ST radials. 20-22psi.
Try a set of drag radials. 15psi should be ok, but you will have to play around with to determine what pressure works best. An adjustable set of shocks in the back would be ideal. QA1s would be my first choice.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2011 | 11:32 PM
  #20  
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Ran a 16.75 tonight, fastest its ever went!
 
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