I don't see why not. Curious as to why you would want to.

 

Yes, I can confirm that you can run these bearings without a CV axle, The 2wd and 4wd carry the same part number for hubs.

Some unit bearings can not be run without an axle (or large bolt in its place)
Chevrolet uses this design.

However our truck uses a different design that allows to run without axles indefinitely.

 

Last year I had to replace upper ball joint, outer tie rods and drivers side hub on my 06. Only had 42,000 miles. All highway.
After they replaced tie rods and ball joint, they called and asked if I was hearing a humming noise. I was but thought it was tire noise. They said it was the bad hub making the noise.
I am noticing a little of the same noise and curious if the other side is going bad.
Any help would be appreciated.

 

I replaced both of my hubs with new ones from Rockauto. I bought timken ones for the non-abs front. Now, when i got em, they were in a timken box. BUt when i was installing em, I realized they had S.K.F. Stamped on the side... THose are like 20-30$ more each! That shows you how many parts are made by other manufactures in reality.

 

I didnt know mine were bad. I was rebuilding my front suspension and realized they were stiff and were making noise when i rotated em around while the cv shafts were removed. I thought id replace them while i was at it. I ended up replacing innder and outter tie rods, all new upper and lower arms, new cvs, new sway bar bushings, new sway bar end links and new hubs. Rides almost like new. Needs new struts tho, but i was fixing what was important which was the ball joints but the bushings in the arms were bad and one of my ower arms was bent. Cheaper to replace entire lower arm. IF these ball joints go out, ill only replace the ball joint.

 

Currently in the process of doing some much needed front end work. Pads, Rotors, Struts, Upper C Arm, Lower Ball Joint, Links, annnnd Hub Assemblies. Wouldn't be so bad, except that it's cold as ballz outside, but I digress. Only issue at the moment is getting the rust welded hubs out of their hole. PITA's they are!!! Here's a list of the newbies going back in place..

Pads: Wagner Thermo Quiet Ceramic
Rotors: Power Stop Evolution Drilled/Slotted
Sway Links: Moog
L. Ball Joint: Moog
Struts: Monroe Reflex
Strut Mounts: Monroe
Hub Assembly: Timken

 

I just did this job on my '05 Dakota.

As noted repeatedly above, it's a real son-of-a-gun to "pull" the hub out of its press-fit in the steering knuckle. Most folks describe banging on the hub's drive flange with a sledge to "wobble" it out. One of the difficulties is that the brake rotor dust shield prevents you from striking the REAR of the drive flange except in one small quadrant where the caliper was removed.

Consider the following alternative which I found much more productive:

Do NOT remove the three hub-to-knuckle bolts altogether. Instead, just back them out about a quarter-inch. Then pound on those bolt heads from the rear (hand sledge and a drift works well) to PUSH the hub out of the knuckle. Back them out a little more and repeat.

I found this much easier and much more effective than trying to "pull" or "wobble" the hub out from the front with the bolts completely removed. Easier than trying to get a chisel into the non-existent gap between the parts.

If you break the head off one or more of the three bolts, it doesn't matter. Just use a large pin punch and drive/strike the broken bolt fragment from the rear nonetheless.

Just my 2/100 of a buck. Hope someone finds it helpful.