Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't you kill that rack by running 265/75 r16 all terrain tires on the truck?

You increased the unsprung weight of the tires by quite a bit, plus, the rack of these trucks cannot handle the resistance created by those bad boys.

I am pretty certain Dodge did away with the 16" wheel and 265/70 tire package after 2006, because even that FACTORY size proved to be problematic.

If that wasn't you, then i apologize in advance.


I see your point though, and your right, the rack and pinion system is definitely underpowered. So underpowered that small changes seem to trash it rather quickly, like my tire example.

 

Must be some other member, I am running stock size BFG which are only like 10 LBS more each. Which by no means should cause a rake to fail.

The rack only failed after about 3000 on the BFG tires. It was something non serviceable on the inside of the racks fluid channeling that failed on mine. So I would never blame the heavier tires.

With a 1.5" or 2" leveling kit you are not added much stress to the rack or tie rod ends. The angles do not change enough to cause issues. Its the CV joint angles that become stressed.

The new rake has been in for 30,000 and no issues.

As for a comment about rear blocks. Yes certain rear blocks will cause added stress to the pinion seals.
BUT!! if you buy lift blocks that are tapered correctly this fixes the drive angle to stock and will cause almost 0 stress. I say almost 0 because adding rear blocks on top of the axle can cause more axle roll.

 

my rack is still good. 76k miles. leveling kit installed at 3000 miles.

 

i had my rack and pin go couple months ago, and i have some master crafts at 245/70/r 16 and my power steering sucks. would tire size be my problem?

 

I'm a mechanic by trade and have installed and worked on hundreds of lifted vehicles and fail to see how blocks would cause a pinion seal fail.

The pinion is held in place by the pinion bearings, it doesn't move or flex. All the extra stress from the lift is taken up by the driveshaft u-joints. I've seen many u-joints fail prematurely from bad driveshaft angles after a lift. Never a pinion seal.

 

What if someone did like Jkeaton did, used add-a-leaf lift kits? Would that cause some axle roll, or would that allow the axle to stay in line with the shafts? I could imagine that the only thing that would adjust be the angle that the u-joints will be running at.

 

Tapered blocks will point the pinion up and reduce the stress on the driveshafts u-joints. Neither a tapered block or square block will have any effect on the pinion seal.

When installing extra leafs or add-a-leafs you can add a shim between the bottom leaf and spring pad to point the pinion up. This has the same effect as using a tapered block and will reduce the stress on the u-joints.

 

Thanks Monkey...Im sure that the damage was just from worn parts and not so much my leveling kit, but im also convinced that the kit helped them along alot faster. So I will take it out, i cant afford to replace parts every 5-7 months, talk to my mechanic he said leaving the blocks in it will still look good and wont be a problem. I have Grabber 255/70 on my 16's so i shouldnt have a problem with rubbing or anything. Ill try to post a before and after picture if i can.

Monkey...I have a side question, the mechanics at the dodge dealership told me i needed a new rack and when i brought it to my guy he told me i didnt, well long story short i went back to the dealer and asked what was going on, I wanted them to show me why i needed a new rack. They took me into the shop after they lifted my truck without me there and im looking at the rack and there is NO fluid anywhere, the mechanic points to the boots and says see that moisture line that is were the fluid is in the booth your inner seal is broken. I was under the impression that if your rack needed to be replace it would spit fluid? also on the highway around town there is NO play or vibration or hard time with steering, it seems to work fine. I dont know if the dealer was trying to make money off me and when i confronted them they tried to sell me a bullcrap problem to save face, i dont know... Any help would be appreciated

 

I have been running a 265/75/16 from 35K to 110K, and now I run a 285/75/16 (load range E, Goodyear Duratrac) on my truck. I still have the same rack from when I bought the truck (brand new) from the dealer, and it is just fine at 112K.

As far as I can remember, the Dak SLT and higher trim packages through 2011 all came with 265/70/16 or 265/65/17. The only trim level that came with a 245/70/16 was the ST.

I see what you are saying. Its "possible", but don't agree that your tire example is a universal truth for our trucks, based on my experience and about a humpteen dozen members that run 265/75/16 or bigger.

I'm in no way bashing your comments or suggestions, just disagreeing with that one particular statement.

 

Yeah I remember that most of you guys have had good results.

I don't know I am just restating what Dodge told me.



There is no argument that the rack is underpowered in general though.