So i got an oil change at a garage
true..hopefully they just ring it up as 5X most common type of oil (5W-30) and what they charged him is completely irrelevant. Pretty unprofessional if they did give him the right stuff and the receipt reads that though..
HUH?!?!?!?!
I hear you guys saying that it shouldn't make a difference....buuuuuttt.... I could have sworn that we were SUPPOSED to be using 5W-30 .... It's what I've been using (Mobil-1 5W-30) since I've had my truck.
Is there no real difference between the two, or should I FOR SURE switch to 5W-20 from now on???
(I feel like a Tard Ball)
I hear you guys saying that it shouldn't make a difference....buuuuuttt.... I could have sworn that we were SUPPOSED to be using 5W-30 .... It's what I've been using (Mobil-1 5W-30) since I've had my truck.
Is there no real difference between the two, or should I FOR SURE switch to 5W-20 from now on???
(I feel like a Tard Ball)
I have run 5w-20, 5w-30 and 10w-30 (because I grab the wrong bottle and too lazy to go back) and never had any problems whatsoever. If you look at the owners manual, it gives you a wide range of viscosities based on ambient temperature and I'm positive 5w-30 is in there somewhere. It may make the oil pressure go up a bit.
if you are not running synthetic then do what Reject said. buy some cheap oil like NAPA conventional that is certified but cheap and run it for 1500 miles or so. feel free to beat on the truck..do some nice 0-60 runs pulling out of work like I do! then change the oil and run a full synthetic such as Valvoline when it is on sale at Autozone or what not..the best tip I can give you is do it yourself! An 07 V8 should take 6 quarts of 5w-20. Mine runs 5w-30 but it is a 2006 model. Get yourself a 13 mm wrench, an oil filter wrench (usually they come off by hand but after a year it is probably tight), and a drain pan. These trucks are high enough at stock height to slide right under there without jacking up the front end.
In addition to this excellent piece of advice, I would also run a cleaner in the Napa oil just before you drain it. BG 109 is a fantastic product that will help clean the inside of your crankcase. It is called a "compression restorer", but was made to replace their "quick clean". It is (hands down) the best cleaner I have ever used.
Here's what you do:
1. Pour entire can of BG 109 into the engine the day you plan on doing the oil change.
2. Idle the engine for 10-15 min (preferably on a warm day).
3. Shut off engine
4. Drain oil out of engine
5. Remove old oil filter
6. Install new oil filter
7. Add new oil to crank case
8. Start changing you oil every 5K
No guys, 2007 takes 5W-20..Billy on here uses it and he has an 07 club cab. I know 07 is pre face-lift in 08 but the U.S. requires use of 5W-20 in domestics for efficiency purposes or something lame along those lines. If he sees this thread he will chime in. Or check your manual for us..
I think it kinda varied by location.Btw these guys are pouring out some good advice I would agree with. I have used Rislone as a cleaner too
I have run 5w-20, 5w-30 and 10w-30 (because I grab the wrong bottle and too lazy to go back) and never had any problems whatsoever. If you look at the owners manual, it gives you a wide range of viscosities based on ambient temperature and I'm positive 5w-30 is in there somewhere. It may make the oil pressure go up a bit.
Hey JKeaton,
. Knowing that you're pretty darn knowledgeable and having high regard for your input and opinions, maybe you can shed a little light on this, because I haven't found much info in my searches.
. The time before last, that I changed my oil (faithful Mobil-1 user) was the first time that I did so after returning home from a year overseas in Afghcrappistan. (<<< if you think it's mean to call Afghaniland that, feel free to comment IF you yourself have spent considerable amount of time there)
This was my third time coming home after an escape from reality (some of you know what I'm talking about) and to no surprise having been gone for that much time I was in the typical "Wow! look at all this new stuff! / What did I miss while I was gone?" mode that is all too common to us service members, especially after multiple deployments.
..... Anywhooooo, I came across this "*All-New*" Mobil-1 Extended Performance.
mobil1.jpg
Mobil1EP.jpg
Never heard of it...so whipping out my brand new iPhone5 <---first smart phone for this guy ever...don't judge... (which reminds me I have a joke about smart phones if you wanna hear) I do a quick google search for reviews and the first couple I came across that seemed objective enough (because we all know they can't put anything on the internet that isn't true, just ask my girlfriend, she's a french model) gave it good reviews.
. So, what the heck I'll try it. (Ok now let's all say it together "What's the worst that could happen?") Now, even though I know some "experts" say that if you use full synthetic you can really go for about 8-10K miles between changes and be just fine (depending on how hard you drive); I've always been a die hard 5K change kind of guy (I was actually OCD enough that way back when, soon after I got my Dak and changed my oil for the first time I saw that I was at 47.8K and went ahead and changed it again at 50K and every 5K since just to keep it easy to remember). I was a lil nervous letting it go a full 15K before I changed it, and don't forget about the filter as well! (I found out later that they also make an EP filter as well, but I didn't see it there at the time and it has been habit to just snag up a MOPAR MO-899 filter (which reminds me, if you think there is any diff in filters and one is better than another, lemme know what you think))
. So, I grabbed 3 filters 6 quarts of EP oil and out I went. It goes without saying I was going nuts watching my odometer go past 5-6-7K miles and not cleaning her pipes (got busy with school and actually forgot to switch the filters, partly because I thought about it a week or so after my purchase as to whether or not you CAN even change the filter without draining everything, so I erased my reminders).
. Once I hit 10K I couldn't take it anymore, plus with the added placebo effect of anytime I felt like my engine was lagging for any reason I was like "UUGGHHH my oil is turning to sludge!" So, under her hood and carriage I went. (Been so long apart from her, it felt like our first time) Didn't notice anything special, EXCEPT when I took off my Oil Filler Cap. Now, when I detail my engine I am like an OCD patient main lining Adderall, making sure everything is spotless, including having all the fluid caps clean as a whistle inside and out (I even have a special dental pick I use to scrape around all the raised lettering). Well, the Filler Cap wasn't just super icky...it was stained BAD! No matter how hard I scrubbed or even with a couple light touches with a plastic rust remover on my Dremel (after two light touches I noticed it was gouging the plastic and of course wasn't gonna risk some flakes of plastic getting in my engine) there was no change, NADDA, the GUNK remained and the yellow plastic was no more. (I could give a good comparable example of what it looked like, but it'd be pretty gross, not appropriate, and also probably offensive to most gay men who like corn on the cob, so I won't go there)
:::: CAN ANY OF YOU TELL YET (THAT HAVE ACTUALLY READ THIS FAR) ::::: :::: THAT I AM BACK IN SCHOOL WRITING A TON OF PAPERS AND HAVE ::::: :::: A SERIOUS CAFFEINE ADDICTION? AGAIN, DON'T JUDGE :::::
. My only thought was that this new oil efffed it up. So, I switched back to my old reliable regular 5W-30 FullSyn and promised myself I'd never switch again.
. So, what do you know about this extended performance stuff and would you (or any of you that have suffered through my epic post reply) ever consider using it "as directed" and let it go 15K between changes?






