I know that doing this is pointless, but the 2nd gens in my own experience had way way more pick up and could do burnouts no problem, and I had the 01 quad cab v6.

I know that getting these will help
Sonnax pressure line booster
Superchip hand held
Installing a efan
and a 68.5mm throttle body

Anything else that needs to be done? Because I can only make tiny little burnouts, and yes I had a LSD.

 

Thats about the best you can do with bolt ons. Getting into the engine, HO cams, etc. is the only thing left, but thats big bucks. Depends on how much you want to spend to burn your tires up (so you can spend even more money on tires all the time). You can also lighten the truck as much as possible, remove the spare, remove the rear seats, yank out the AC. Again, depends on how far you are willing to go.

 

Cold air intake, headers, hi-flo catalytic converters and exhaust! I have everything but the headers. Huge improvement.

 

The cheap way to go is to mount a separate wiper washer system under the hood, run hose/nozzles to the rear wheels and mount a toggle switch in the cab. Fill with bleach.

Just wet the tires anytime you want to burn em and even that v6 will do it effortlessly. You can get all this from a junkyard cheaper than any of the items you listed.

 

Here's my take on "adding power" to newer generation vehicles. When you look back at all your rubber burning experiences in older vehicles, they all had one thing in common - little-to-no computer control or intervention when you stomp on the "loud peddle". The cost of gasoline and environmental pollution concerns have caused most manufacturers to incorporate techniques that make it real hard to show gasoline muscle. Although there are some chips and programmers that allow you to modify the PCM control algorithms, you can only change things so much. In my opinion, one of the big areas that takes performance away is the auto tranny - because it's a lot easier to allow the computer to control the entire power train output & allow the manufacturer to meet environmental requirements through the use of an automatic transmission, they do it. Leaving the auto tranny in place will reduce the impact of a lot of the bolt-ons like headers, HO cams, etc. If I wanted to make this truck more impressive power wise, I'd first convert it to a manual before making any engine modifications and then I'd remove the limited slip diff if it was there. Now I would be ready for engine and suspension modifications that would give me that show of power and still leave me with a vehicle that would pass the local pollution tests (giving me a street legal machine). All this is a lot of work, so before I did that, I'd see what I could buy that would allow me to build it up without the inconvenience of fighting with a computer in the truck or a civil servant in the licensing office - this would be a vehicle from the mid to late 80's.

 

Yes, this is very true. I mean my 95 trans am doesn't have a big computer like newer than 96's. Lit up the tires every gear. My 92 sierra spun tires every time I touched the throttle. I don't want a manual, it's my daily driver. I will for sure have a manual in my next trans am or my 79 aspen for sure. But I'll have a 440 or 426 hemi in that no question about it. So spinning tires wouldn't be an issue.

For now, I'll do exhaust, intake and programmer and trans booster.