The hub is a good design for assembly because it can only go in one way, but for removal it can be really brutal. When you look at your new hub, the inside outer surface slides into the knuckle for a tight fit, when you add rust, you have a serious problem & from your description of your problem with the bolts and hub I'm assuming you're into the really brutal challenge. Depending on what tools you have and what your experience is with separating seized/rusted components, you may find it a lot easier to remove the knuckle and take it to a shop that has both oxy-acetalyene equipment and a shop press. The heat & the pressure will take out the hub. They may also need to arc or mig the broken bolt shafts to get them to break their rust bond and get those out as well. Take care not to damage the ball joints when removing the knuckle. When you re-assemble everything, use anti-seize compound on the mating surfaces of the hub & knuckle as well as on those 3 bolts.

The brake caliper doesn't sound like it's working properly (if the seals are leaking or the piston is scored, it's safer and not much more expensive to change the whole caliper instead of trying to rebuild your own) - when you push the piston back in, it should NOT leak. It also sounds like you have a bit of pressure in the system, did you remove the reservoir cap to allow the fluid to return their without creating a bit of pressure?

 

Im taking the Knuckle off today, Dealer only had 1 of hte Hub bolts, I have to go to another dealer to get the other 2. Not to far away tho, both about the same distance from me.
If I cant get the Hub out/off ill take it to the shop i take the truck to, to have it removed. A new one knuckle is $460+

I did not remove the cap, I thought about it at first. The Caliper are under a Year old, so ill take it back to the shop and have them look at both the front ones and check everything out.

 

You shouldn't need a new knuckle, it's nothing more than a casting with some precision machining, however, if you should decide (or need) to go that route, check with an auto salvage yard - they should be much cheaper there. Before you leave the knuckle & hub at the shop & say "fix it", ask them if they've got experience in removing seized hubs and seized bolts and ask them how they plan to do it. If they tell you they'll drill out the old bolt shafts, take the whole thing someplace else (a machine shop might be able to precisely drill out the old shafts, but a regular garage won't have the equipment or the skill). Penetrating oil helps, and then welding a head onto the shaft (I use a nut that will fit over the shaft and weld that to the shaft) - this sudden expansion of the shaft from the welding heat will often break the rust bond enough that you can unscrew the shaft (with the new head) without damaging the original threaded hole.

 

I did get it out, I removed it, Put it Hub side down (all the stubs got smashed out already) then proceed to slam a 40lb sledge hammer into the bearing on the back side after about 3 hits I could see it moving some, then about 25 more I got it out haha
Cleaned up the rust with a wire brush, used a file to clean out the bolt holes some Test fit the new hub, Then removed it partial bolted the knuckle back on (still need to torque it all correctly.
Anyone know what the specs are to torque it all to? Sway bar, Tie-rod, Upper and Lower Ball-joint bolts?

Now here is my other question, when I got the knuckle off the truck, the Lower Ball-joints boot came off to, It doesnt look like anything "held" it on other then being between the joint and bolt. Tie-rod end looks the same way, altho it didnt pop off since its facing upward. Did see MOOG on them and grease nipple on each I planned to bolt it back together and re-fill it with grease and put a little In the Tie-rod end aswell.

I just need to pickup my last 2 Hub Bolts from the dealer for $5/ec lol

 

 

fyi, when changing out wheel bearings, its best to do both, even tho one isnt bad yet

 

The Drivers side was done 2 years ago when I bought the truck.

I thought about tearing it down and anti-seizing all the bolts tho.

 

If anyone is wondering the Specs for Torque the bolts is
55ft. Lbs.
Lower Suspension Ball Joint Nut

55ft. Lbs.
Upper Suspension Ball Joint Nut

45ft. Lbs.
Stabilizer Bar Frame Bolt

125ft Lbs.
Stabilizer Link to Lower Control Arm

27ft. Lbs.
Stabilizer Link Stabilizer Bar Nut

120ft. Lbs.
Hub/Bearing Bolts

55ft. Lbs
Tie-Rod End to Knuckle Bolt

55ft. Lbs.
Tie-Rod End Jam Nut

 

Got all my bolts today, Got everything bolted back on, Torqued to the specs. Slid the Rotor on then went to put the caliper on, Piston still out so I tried to slid it back nothing, removed the cap nothing, then it just popped out completely and leak fluid down the driveway when I went inside for a second.
The main "upper" piston popped out all the way, the lower one never moved out at all. So I now have the caliper removed from the brake line and in the shed to look at it tomorrow and see if it is possible to slid it back in without damaging anything.

 

Well managed the get the Caliper all back together, get both pistons to slide back in enough to get the pads and and slide it easily over the rotor.
Bleed the Passenger Front (One I removed) then the drivers side. Brakes the exact same as it did before so im happy, made sure to top off the fluid aswell.