The ABS plumbing that I use(d) is the 3" drain pipe and it's associated fittings. If you were to look up the thermal coefficient for this, you'd find that it's really a good insulator as well as being easy to work with (cut & weld), so I wouldn't bother with any wraps. Consider how much air moves through that pipe and how long it's in contact with that pipe and you should be able to get a gut feel for how much heat that ambient air is going to absorb (In many cases in the summer, the ambient air is going to be hotter than the pipe it's going through). I would recommend a heat shield for the filter - this works to both deflect engine heat as well as duct the ambient from the front right into the filter.

To do this with any tubing, you'll need the outside diameter of your throttle body & the inside diameter of your filter end - this is to buy/build an interface to the tubing. You'll also need to determine the routing so that you can figure out how to support the tube and whether you need any special plumbing for hoses, sensors, etc.
Here are some pictures to give you an idea of what I did on my jeep - this was the only CAI project that I took pictures of.

This shows the adapter I used to mount the filter - I used an ABS shower drain for the main part & used a 3" male/male ABS coupling stuck into the drain end & sticking out about 1.5" as the filter mount. Then I had room around the drain flange to mount the heat shield.

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This one shows the rubber adapter from the tube to the throttle body:

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Sound deadening insulation is a good idea, especially if you spend a lot of time in your truck. It's one thing to have the sound of power to everyone you pass, but to sit for hours listening to that drone & roar can have a serious effect on you. Keep in mind that foam will hold moisture and can eventually rot holes in your hood - you don't see this type of stuff from any OEM that I'm familiar with, so even though it looks good, I'd personally stay away from it

 

Thanks, been doing a bit more research and looking at several other options for a new hood liner...don't need one right this minute, so I got time to get the best price on exactly what I am looking for. I totally understand the whole "reflective" heat sheilds and all, but I plan to paint on the underside of my hood, so I don't know what I'll go with. I saw a few DIY videos on YouTube where people made their own with fiberglass sheets and tin foil...*shrug.

 

That's an awesome set up you have there! I'm gonna head on over to my Home Depot and see what I can find...I totally like the PVC or ABS pipe plans...but me being me, I want to see what they have so I could keep everything smooth from end to end, with out having to get male-female flanges etc. Maybe a way to bond two ends flush to one another (i.e. like between a 90 and straight piece)

 

Your routing will determine how much bending or elbows you'll need. If you want to bend the tubes, you won't be able to use the drain pipe as I did, it's just too thick to bend properly. You'll need to use PVC drain pipe or buy specialty ABS from a plastics supplier & even then, you'll most likely need to make yourself a heatbox to warm the plastic up to being flexible and then bend it carefully - this will take practice not to kink the bend, I don't do it that often and always ruin a few tubes before I get back into the swing of things. The advantage of using the ABS drain pipe over the heatbox method is that the drain pipe is very quick to assemble & you really need to work at ruining it.

If you plan to "weld" a flange to the tube, remember that both PVC and ABS need to be brought together tightly to get a good melt of both pieces thereby making a strong bond. With flat or butt welding, you need to clamp the pieces together (you can also use self tapping screws to pull the pieces together tightly), but with adding a flange to a tube, you need to taper the outside of the tube and the inside of the flange so that the 2 pieces will come together tightly when you push the tube into the flange. I always do the fit dry first, then, I add the solvent to both surfaces and bring them together quickly and as tight as possible. You'll bet a good bond this way.

With PVC, try a few samples of solvents until you get one that reacts with the particular tube the way you want it to - I've found through trial & error that you can't rely on generic PVC solvent working on all PVC - in my experience, it doesn't (again, another reason I usually choose ABS).

If you look up "how to bend ABS tubing", you'll find quite a few articles and some videos that will show you what you need to make an ABS heatbox. This box allows you to heat up a section of ABS tube (about a foot to 18 inches is a good start for trial) to the point of flexibility (you need to experiment on how much heat you run through this box and how long you keep it closed to get that particular tube to flex cleanly). To make a gentle clean bend, you need to get the feel of how much effort you apply to pull the flexible tube apart as you slowly bend it. Once you stop, you're done. If you blow it, start over.