Yep. That all makes sense. I was hoping to increase the shock angle. I'll need to figure on welding a shock hoop or adapting the spring perch too. Yeah that bolt is scary big. It is going to rub the cup, not the boot. Is it possible to invert the orientation of the knuckle and LCA? ...have the knuckle sitting on top of the LCA? I guess it hurts ground clearance and lift and changes the geometry to do that--just a thought. So you had to clearance the knuckle for the articulation of the uniball? photobucket is not allowing me to see the enlarged pic. That would make it weaker and I defo could not remove anymore to gain room between the bolt and the cv cup without adding material and gusseting the bottom of the knuckle--which is not out of the question. Maybe I can produce modified knuckles for the 4x crowd.

 

Ok photobucket is working, I see where you trimmed now. It actually looks as though the cup may clear the bolt if I shorten it as much as I dare. I could probably remove a little material from the bearing surface of the knuckle too.

 

Ram axels are an exact fit, except they are 2 1/2" longer. The control arms I'm considering are 3" longer. What are the thoughts on this being a problem. With my limited knowledge, it seems that it will work. Opinions?

 

CVs plunge....if you can yank a .5 inch out of it you should be fine....or take the spline count and length and get some 300m axles custom cut from kartek....

 

NO THANK$. Before I do that I would cut, section and sleeve the stockers and gamble.

Is it possible to move the LCA shock mount forward a hair to make sure the 3" OD springs would clear the axel? I don't want to have to raise the lower spring perch above the axel--worried about fitting a 17"--25" (FOA 8") shock between the LCA and the upper mount.

 

Anything is possible! But moving mounts around, while making axles, control arms, etc. longer or shorter or whatever, will really mess with the geometry. Here is a thought . . .


Mock up a set-up using pieces of dowling and plywood wood. All at say, 50% scale. Use simple door hinges for the ball joints and just see what works and what doesn't as you move the "wheel" up and down. Take pictures and report back! This is clearly stuff that goes beyond what very many people have done and doing it on a truck can get pricey. Mocking it up will take some time, but 2x4s and plywood can give you a pretty good idea for cheap.

 

Thanks for the advice. A mock up is already in the works. I am lazy with posting pictures. When I asked about moving the mount, I was speaking of the arms that 'dirtfab is making for his truck. I am fast approaching the buy the parts and make it work stage. The front end on this truck is starting to demand attention. Both shocks are blown, but they were so bad to begin with... The steering rack has just given up (too much stuff and droop). Ball Joints are whining now too. Only 35,000 miles. A lot of off road but not that much abuse. I have to say I am glad I leveled the truck, but it really is a street application. It's really a street truck all around considering the way it was built by dodge; 4x4 or not!

BTW: there are no race shops around here where/how the heck am I going to charge my shocks? Need 150 psi of nitrogen.

 

Tire stores will if you know the guys or buy them beer. Yes the LCA shock mount can be played with left right forward or backwards SLIGHTLY! Too much and you will affect shock progression and bind upon compression. That's why they have heim joints instead of bushings. Allows a little bit of play. I could always ship the lower arms without shock tabs and you can mock up and burn em in wherever you see fit.

 

And if you cant swing 2.5 COs theres no shame in 2.0 even the 2.5 coilovers I believe have a smaller spring O.D. then our factory springs. Which will help with clearance. If sleeved and welded and probably post heated or pre heated....I dont see a problem extending those front axles. They dont see torsional load 90% of the time cause your in 2wd.

 

Awesome, when we are both ready to pull the trigger, I will let you know. Its ok if I don't use cro-mo rod? I have funding to start, but I want to iron as much out as possible first. Did you get CAs on your truck yet?

Yeah I though nitrogen might be available at the tire shop, but not locally; I live in the stone age over here. These dummies would tell me that "nitrogen should go in the engine to make it faster, like them rice burners!"