Seems to be what's making this loud "tap, tap, tap." I can see one side is a little black around the manifold, but the other side is where the noise is coming from. Probably both leaking. Anybody fix this? Looks like a pain. Only gonna get worse right?

 

I isn't going to get any better . . . .


There are threads here (do a search) that deal with broken manifold studs. It is likely your problem. Some have done it themselves pretty effectively.


Good luck.

 

The studs to the block break and allow the gap? The ones that secure the cats to the manifolds don't look so hot either. Thanks for the reply, I'll do my research.

 

If you're gouing to R&R the exhaust manifolds, be sure to tighten then down in the proper sequence and to the proper torque as listed in the service manual.

My take on it is that overtightening can lead to breakage as the manifolds need to move slightly as they heat up and cool down. Don't ask how I know.

 

How do you know? J/K. I would like to do a quick fix or none at all; this thing is going to get a 5.7 someday and I don't want to waste $ on the 4.7. It has only 38,000 miles and has only seen M1 synthetic anyone wanna buy it?

 

There is no such thing as a "quick fix" when it comes to changing exhaust manifold gaskets, especially if any of the studs/bolts are broken. If that engine has seen good treatment, you shouldn't have trouble selling it - I would advertise locally, you'll get better exposure and a much better chance of selling it. The "down side" to not repairing it is that people generally like to have a look at what they're buying and listen to how it runs - with the thing knocking or making other noises and having black around the manifold leak won't promote your sale.

 

hints i have learned. first use anti-sieze compound on ALL threads. and tighten the bolts to only 70-80 % of full torque. then after 4-6 full heat cycles take to full torque. if it leeks before that go and take it to full torque.

 

Thanks fellas. I'll probably have to bite the bullet and bolt it back down properly. if the manifold is cracked... I will be displeased to say the least. Seems like mileage is irrelevant to this truck, and that age is the biggest factor with it's problems.

 

Exhaust repairs around the manifold are amongst the toughest because of the lack of working space and the heat seized bolts/studs. Large parts like the manifold(s) can be obtained from an auto salvage yard at a reasonable price, but the removal of broken studs or bolts is usually tough and can be costly if you don't have the equipment yourself. I would first see if I had any bolts or studs that were broken by attempting to turn each manifold retainer - if it's hard to turn, it's not broken (yet). If you have any broken, take it to a place that are able to remove them WITHOUT drilling out the broken part. If you/they attempt to remove by drilling, the alignment and center of the new hole will be different than the original and this will make sealing the manifold tough without dragging manifold holes. I recommend using lots of penetrating oil initially on all the bolts & studs and then using the "nut weld-on" method for removing the broken pieces (Don't forget to disconnect the battery or remove the computer before welding). There are descriptions on this forum and generally on the internet that describe using a welder to remove broken bolts.

 

Thank you. I am too busy to do this, but every time I get a repair bill, I think I should go into business doing it myself!

I have to weld/attach shock hoops for the long travel set up, sooo... might try to fix the manifold while I am at it.