power stearing issues and how i think i fixed it
so for the last month or so ive had weird intermittent power steering in my 2010 big horn 4x4 4.7l
i checked the fluid and its dirty but full
first guess was the belt was slipping so i changed that...nope
so now i dug deeper, i inspected the ball joints, cv axles, swaybar bushings..everything looks like it was made yesterday
then inspecting the steering shaft and the ujoint areas look rusty, nothing horrible but ugly, so i sprayed em with pbblaster
then i got mad and turned the truck lock to lock multiple times in the shop on the floor, pushed on the locks till it hissed a lil each time
its either the pb or the angry forces but the problem hasnt returned yet, that was 3 days ago, after work, in the cold shop
hope this helps someone else
good luck
i checked the fluid and its dirty but full
first guess was the belt was slipping so i changed that...nope
so now i dug deeper, i inspected the ball joints, cv axles, swaybar bushings..everything looks like it was made yesterday
then inspecting the steering shaft and the ujoint areas look rusty, nothing horrible but ugly, so i sprayed em with pbblaster
then i got mad and turned the truck lock to lock multiple times in the shop on the floor, pushed on the locks till it hissed a lil each time
its either the pb or the angry forces but the problem hasnt returned yet, that was 3 days ago, after work, in the cold shop
hope this helps someone else
good luck
The U-Joint in the intermediate shaft are known to go out, ive had to replace mine already. Sadly it the shaft you have to replace aswell, Someone local here did find a U-Joint the fit perfectly for our older Dak, from a small kuboto tractor
Can they be replaced in the vehicle r do you have to take the whole shaft out, my truck only has 45k
I'm familiar with the 2nd gen, my dad had his replaced by some moron and now the wheel is 90° out but that truck had over 250k when it needed it
I'm familiar with the 2nd gen, my dad had his replaced by some moron and now the wheel is 90° out but that truck had over 250k when it needed it
Mine was around 120k km before it was replace, you need to pull most the shaft out i believe, and if you dont line it back up correct, your wheel will be off the same your off. I had a shop replace mine.
You could have had air in the system. Lock-to-Lock turning multiple times could have cured it. Had it happen to me once, this procedure fixed it.
From the workshop manual:
POWER STEERING PUMP - INITIAL OPERATION
WARNING: THE FLUID LEVEL SHOULD BE CHECKED WITH ENGINE OFF TO PREVENT INJURY FROM MOVING
COMPONENTS.
CAUTION: MOPART ATF+4 is to be used in the power steering system. No other power steering or automatic
transmission fluid is to be used in the system. Damage may result to the power steering pump and
system if any other fluid is used, Do not overfill.
Wipe filler cap clean, then check the fluid level. The dipstick should indicate COLD when the fluid is at normal
temperature.
1. Turn steering wheel all the way to the left
2. Fill the pump fluid reservoir to the proper level and let the fluid settle for at least two (2) minutes.
3. Raise the front wheels off the ground.
4. Slowly turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock 20 times with the engine off while checking the fluid level.
NOTE: Vehicles with long return lines or oil coolers turn wheel 40 times.
5. Start the engine. With the engine idling maintain the fluid level.
6. Lower the front wheels and let the engine idle for two minutes.
7. Turn the steering wheel in both direction and verify power assist and quiet operation of the pump.
If the fluid is extremely foamy or milky looking, allow the vehicle to stand a few minutes and repeat the procedure.
From the workshop manual:
POWER STEERING PUMP - INITIAL OPERATION
WARNING: THE FLUID LEVEL SHOULD BE CHECKED WITH ENGINE OFF TO PREVENT INJURY FROM MOVING
COMPONENTS.
CAUTION: MOPART ATF+4 is to be used in the power steering system. No other power steering or automatic
transmission fluid is to be used in the system. Damage may result to the power steering pump and
system if any other fluid is used, Do not overfill.
Wipe filler cap clean, then check the fluid level. The dipstick should indicate COLD when the fluid is at normal
temperature.
1. Turn steering wheel all the way to the left
2. Fill the pump fluid reservoir to the proper level and let the fluid settle for at least two (2) minutes.
3. Raise the front wheels off the ground.
4. Slowly turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock 20 times with the engine off while checking the fluid level.
NOTE: Vehicles with long return lines or oil coolers turn wheel 40 times.
5. Start the engine. With the engine idling maintain the fluid level.
6. Lower the front wheels and let the engine idle for two minutes.
7. Turn the steering wheel in both direction and verify power assist and quiet operation of the pump.
If the fluid is extremely foamy or milky looking, allow the vehicle to stand a few minutes and repeat the procedure.






