I have a 2008 Mitsubishi Raider (a re-badged Dakota) with 62,000 miles. I have been going nuts trying to find the cause of a clunking sound when taking slow (approx 15 mph), hard, sharp turns. It will also clunk if swerving hard left to right left to right at slow speeds. The single clunk happens when the steering wheel has been turned about 140 degrees either right or left, and most of the time it will clunk again once the wheels are straightened back. Another example is going fast into the inside lane around a roundabout, it will clunk once when the steering is 140 degrees left and then clunk once again once the steering is straight. It never makes a noise when going straight, regardless of how big of a bump it hits.

This was intermittent over the past couple of years, but now it's more repeatable. During that time the following parts have been changed: struts (entire assembly with Monroe Quick-Strut), lower ball joints, upper control arms with new ball joints, steering rack and pinion, tie rod ends, sway bar end links, sway bar bushings, and brake calipers, rotors, pads. None of these things has made a difference.The only other thing I've read that would possible cause this is the CV joints. I recorded this video of me pulling on the CV. Is this amount noise and movement normal for a CV joint such as this? Ignore the big clunks at then end of the video, that's just the brake rotor on the other side banging.

 

Have you checked the joint on the steering shaft? Those are known to rust up and cause noise/bumping.

 

No I haven't specifically checked the steering shaft. Is there a good method to test it while parked?

Maybe I'll mount a camera somehow and record the steering shaft while going for a drive.

 

Grab it and try to move it. It shouldn’t have any play in it sitting still. It’s right beneath the brake booster. At least you can rule that out.

 

"It’s right be earth the brake booster. At least you can rule that out." Damn you autocorrect . . .

 

Regarding your wiggle it and jiggle it video. Yes, mostly normal and fine.
You mention it occurring at a fairly specific turn position that is repeatable which points to all the things you have described as already been looked at having been replaced.
Are there any suspension mods, lifts, levels, or such on the truck?
What does that truck have for differentials, as perhaps the clunk you hear and describe may just be the limited slips clutches slipping or auto lockers locking/unlocking.

 

Fixed.....

 

I wasn't able to move the steering shaft around, even tried wiggling it with a pry bar. I also put a video camera under the hood and recorded while I was driving, but the steering shaft didn't make any obvious shaking movements when the sound was heard. I'll try to post a short video of that later. I did notice the lower joint of the shaft has a wet appearance, so maybe some of the grease has leaked out of that joint and it is time to replace it anyway.

The truck is completely stock except the stock struts were replaced with the Monroe 171100 Quick-Strut complete strut assembly and this was the first suspension part that was changed from my list of parts. It does seem that this strut assembly lifted the front about 1.5-2.0" inches, which I've now read in some other forum posts is typical of this assembly. Do you think these struts are the cause of the problem? Perhaps the strut mounts clunk only when the steering is turned and the suspension is flexed? Could the extra lift be causing too much pressure on the other joints...even though they are new?

It has the original differentials. Since the roads have been snowy and wet lately, I've driven in 4WD and it still does it...not sure if that makes a difference in the diagnosis or not. A couple other things I have noticed:

--It definitely does it more when the roads are wet.
--I usually feel and hear it coming from the left tire area, but it will occasionally come from the right as well.
--Cold or warm temperatures do not affect it.
--I tightened every body mount and support that I could find.

 

A few ideas for consideration:

Can you recall if the sound and condition was there before the struts were changed? 1.5"-2" is fine and should not be causing any issues. Are assuming that all of the other components (joints) are triple checked right and tight. have seen times when just the flex of the spring in the strut in turning causes simple/minor noises as it pressures on the strut isolators and seats.

Regarding the differentials. Ok, they are original. Does anyone know with certainty what type they are internally as original/stock in this year make model of truck? Diffs will make clunking and shudders as they do what they are supposed to do. Knowing what the truck has in there may be insightful ...... is a very real possibility.

Another is traction control to ask of, not knowing if this 'bishi is that advanced.

A driveway test can be done. You would jack the front of the truck. Remove both front tires. Place a stand under each lower control arm as close to the outer end as possible. Best position is right on the bottom of the strut eye. Set the jack height to approximate the same as the ride height of the tire. Lower the truck onto the stands. Next have someone sit in the truck and turn the steering slowly all way right to left to right to left ..... while you listen for clunks or grinds and look for binding or odd movements in linkages and springs. If it is a linkage or suspension cause, it will reveal itself. If not, see other notes above. Further checking can be a rolling test. Leave the front on stands as described. Goto the back of the truck, jack and put the rear axle on stands just high enough the the rear tires clear the ground and can turn freely. Have someone sit in the truck. Put it in 4wd. Start the truck and put in drive, stick position down into 1st gear. Same thing, slowly turn left right left, while you observe what is going on. If it is a CV or hub cause it will reveal itself. This driveway testing will not reveal anything wrt the function of the differentials.

 

I really wish I could remember exactly if the clunk sound was there before the struts, but I think so. I mostly changed the struts because it was floating all over the road, the steering wheel was kicking left-right when hitting bumps, and the tires were wearing funny. The new struts absolutely fixed all of those issues, but if the clunk noise was happening then, it definitely didn't occur as often as it does now.

I have the PDF's of the factory service manual for the truck. All of the mechanical's are Chrysler Dodge Dakota. All of the parts have Chrysler parts numbers and even the door frame information sticker says manufactured by Chrysler, LOL. Pretty much the only difference is the front bumper, the dashboard, and the truck bed shape. Here is what the manual says about the differentials, etc:
FRONT AXLE - C205F
Axle Ratio: 3.55, 3.92
Differential Case Flange Runout: 0.076 mm (0.003 in.)
Differential Side Gear Clearance: 0 - 0.15 mm (0 - 0.006 in.)
Ring Gear Diameter: 205 mm (8.00 in.)
Ring Gear Backlash: 0.12 - 0.20 mm (0.005 - 0.008 in.)
Ring Gear Runout: 0.12 mm (0.005 in.)

REAR AXLE - 8 1/4
Axle Ratio: 3.21, 3.55, 3.92
Differential Case Flange Runout: 0.076 mm (0.003 in.)
Differential Case Clearance: 0.12 mm (0.005 in.)
Ring Gear Diameter: 213 mm (8.25 in.)
Ring Gear Backlash: 0.12 - 0.20 mm (0.005 - 0.008 in.)
Max Ring Gear Backlash Variation: 0.076 mm (0.003 in.)
Ring Gear Runout: 0.12 mm (0.005 in.)

Transfer Case NV233

Transmission 42RLE

No traction control.

Thank you for this, I'll try it tonight hopefully. The rolling test sounds interesting because it will mimic one of the pieces to this puzzle in that it only happens when moving. I can park and turn the wheels all the way left-right forever and it won't make a sound. The only other thing to keep in mind is that, even when moving, it only seems to happen at the point of a weight shift (even a slight weight shift like when turning into an up-slope or down-slope driveway). This past weekend I had the sway bar and end links off and drove around the neighborhood...it seemed to be easier to trigger the noise than with the sway bar on.

Here are some pictures of the steering column and front left suspension in case they are helpful.