Lightning strikes!
Good evening. I have a 2007 Dodge Dakota 4x4 quad cab SLT. In July, there was a lightning strike about 30 feet away. After the strike, about half the electronics worked on the vehicle and it would not crank to start. Due to where I live, I have no way to get it to a dealership/mechanic and have to do things on my own. This is what I've done so far and what has changed.
Replaced the starter - no change
Replaced the ECU - no change (ordered online and it was coded to my VIN).
Replaced the ignition switch - no change
Replaced the TIPM - ALL the electronics work now, BUT still no crank.
When I use a basic ECU reader, it says no communication with the ECU. I've tested the connection and it is getting the power and ground that it should.
When I try the on/off/on/off/on to get the computer to list codes, nothing comes up.
The gear indicator above the odometer does not light up at all.
I have an opened relay (cover off) and I can manually bypass the relay for the starter and get the engine to crank, but won't start.
I do hear the fuel pump running when I try to run the truck.
I do not think that it is the security system. The light goes off when I try to start the vehicle. The remote keyless entry works ok. The remote starter tries to start the truck, but no crank on that either.
I have inspected the fuses and relays to the best of my ability. I've swapped all the relays to see if that was an issue and no change.
I don't have much for electrical tools, just a basic multimeter and some t-pins.
I've had a couple of thoughts of what might be wrong and here are those.
1. Park-neutral switch, BUT it doesn't start in any gear (tried them all)
2. The TIPM (not just the fuse box, but the computer component attached) might need to be programmed to my VIN. I've found varying responses from, don't have to do anything as long as the part number is the same (which it is) to must be programmed by the dealer (which is not possible).
It's about -10 celsius outside and I have no way to get it into a garage so I'm limited to about 10-30 minutes of work before I have to warm up again. I have a digital service manual, but to be honest, not much experience in cars. I have a basic knowledge as my dad taught me some things. He worked at Ford in factories for 35 years.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Replaced the starter - no change
Replaced the ECU - no change (ordered online and it was coded to my VIN).
Replaced the ignition switch - no change
Replaced the TIPM - ALL the electronics work now, BUT still no crank.
When I use a basic ECU reader, it says no communication with the ECU. I've tested the connection and it is getting the power and ground that it should.
When I try the on/off/on/off/on to get the computer to list codes, nothing comes up.
The gear indicator above the odometer does not light up at all.
I have an opened relay (cover off) and I can manually bypass the relay for the starter and get the engine to crank, but won't start.
I do hear the fuel pump running when I try to run the truck.
I do not think that it is the security system. The light goes off when I try to start the vehicle. The remote keyless entry works ok. The remote starter tries to start the truck, but no crank on that either.
I have inspected the fuses and relays to the best of my ability. I've swapped all the relays to see if that was an issue and no change.
I don't have much for electrical tools, just a basic multimeter and some t-pins.
I've had a couple of thoughts of what might be wrong and here are those.
1. Park-neutral switch, BUT it doesn't start in any gear (tried them all)
2. The TIPM (not just the fuse box, but the computer component attached) might need to be programmed to my VIN. I've found varying responses from, don't have to do anything as long as the part number is the same (which it is) to must be programmed by the dealer (which is not possible).
It's about -10 celsius outside and I have no way to get it into a garage so I'm limited to about 10-30 minutes of work before I have to warm up again. I have a digital service manual, but to be honest, not much experience in cars. I have a basic knowledge as my dad taught me some things. He worked at Ford in factories for 35 years.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
The battery is not that old - less than 3 years. I'm able to charge it up to 12.9volts, but it does deplete pretty fast. I found a drain on the IOD fuses of over 1 amp. When I pulled those fuses, the battery seemed to keep a charge ok.
Do you have comprehensive coverage on the truck? Even my old beaters I carry it long after I drop collision coverage for just this type of event. You may have some blown fusible links. It sounds like you may have to tow it to an auto electric shop. They aren't cheap but probably not more than you've spent throwing parts at it. I had a '97 F-250 PowerStroke that died and wouldn't start. I went over it and my neighbor, who runs a diesel shop checked it with his equipment. We finally decided it was a bad wire somewhere. I towed it to a shop and they spent three hours working on it. They found the problem. It took 3 minutes to fix. A kid had put a "chip" in the computer. Except he put a Federal emissions chip in it and the truck came from California originally. It just got to where it wouldn't run. Several hundred dollars but I never would have found it.
You may have some small critical part blown.
You may have some small critical part blown.
Do you have comprehensive coverage on the truck? Even my old beaters I carry it long after I drop collision coverage for just this type of event. You may have some blown fusible links. It sounds like you may have to tow it to an auto electric shop. They aren't cheap but probably not more than you've spent throwing parts at it. I had a '97 F-250 PowerStroke that died and wouldn't start. I went over it and my neighbor, who runs a diesel shop checked it with his equipment. We finally decided it was a bad wire somewhere. I towed it to a shop and they spent three hours working on it. They found the problem. It took 3 minutes to fix. A kid had put a "chip" in the computer. Except he put a Federal emissions chip in it and the truck came from California originally. It just got to where it wouldn't run. Several hundred dollars but I never would have found it.
You may have some small critical part blown.
You may have some small critical part blown.
I'll check the fuseable links, but the main one to the alternator is ok.
Being that this all happened right after the strike it may have caused some shorts or surges,-lightning can do some weird stuff that you cant see.
I'd check all the main wiring to an from the alt,ecm,bat,starter,an fuses/relays, alarm,ignition signal too.
I'd check all the main wiring to an from the alt,ecm,bat,starter,an fuses/relays, alarm,ignition signal too.










